Kohler k241a Rebuild

[IHinIN]

The crank in the engine in my 100 looks similar to that. It was obviously ran with the pulley loose. It has a key that goes all the way to the end of the crank and it's notched out where the PTO bearing goes. Your crank diameter doesn't look to be worn under size too badly. The pulley ID is likely worn too.

[olds45512]

the crank in my 108 is like that, i put the longest key in it i could and put a new pulley on and its been swinging a 48" deck for the last 4 years. that said since you already have the engine apart id find a new crank, its one thing to rig a good running engine to avoid taking it apart but its another to assemble an engine with a bad crank.

[Bigsauce]

I'm between two options right now, pull the crank out of my other k241 and see what kind of condition it's in and take it to a shop or buy a crank off ebay that is supposedly in spec and looks good. I should have the other k241 out of the cub by tomorrow and apart by next weekend if time allows. I'm kinda leaning towards a crank off ebay since I'll end up paying a comparable amount for magnafluxing, having it undersized, and whatnot.

[Bigsauce]

Update:

I pulled the old engine from the cub, surprised how easy it was to pull out. The tractor is coated in heavy grease/mud/oil all around where the engine sat. Next up is to take apart the block and see if the crank is reusable.

[OldSkull]

Third option: Weld or have someone welding the damage key way and ask your machine shop to cut back the shaft to spec and broach a new key way. You can do it yourself too, I did it on a 1.9L diesel VW who are inclined to have crank sprocket issue.

Broach

[Bigsauce]

Update:

I pulled my other k241 apart to the crankshaft so far. The pto side keyway looks like it's sheared 1/10 of an inch if even that, it's barely noticeable, I'll have a photo of it posted later. The starter pulley was ok tight so that's also good. The crank pin also looks good but we will see once it's pulled out of the block. Still have to pop the flywheel off so here's hoping that isn't damaged.

[Bigsauce]

So I had some time to take apart the block some more, here's a picture of the pto side crankshaft. Also the flywheel side bearing is stuck on the crank, any advice on removal, I've heard that hitting the inner race should dislodge it but I'm not sure that's possible in the position it is in. Lastly the flywheel key is stuck in the keyway, I tried knocking it out but no luck, didn't want to damage anything.

[J-Mech]

Hammer and punch will dislodge the key that is stuck. No big deal.
Best way to get the bearing off is either with a puller, or a press. I would use a press.

[Bigsauce]

Originally Posted by J-Mech

Hammer and punch will dislodge the key that is stuck. No big deal.
Best way to get the bearing off is either with a puller, or a press. I would use a press.

I'm gonna take the crank to the machine shop to be checked so I'll let them press it off then. I've started installing the governor gear, cross shaft, and bushing. Should I put anti-seize or oil on anything in there? Also, just to be safe, a washer goes on behind the governor gear, right? I also noticed that the two blocks had different camshafts, one is the two piece pre-acr cam, and the other is a one piece, I'm thinking I'll use the one piece cam since it seems its in better condition. Any other advice you guys might have that's not in the manual as I slowly begin reassembling the block?

Thanks,

[dvogtvpe]

NEVER USE ANTI SIEZE INSIDE A MOTOR
just use clean engine oil of the type you plan to run. I don't really care for assembly lube in a splash lube engine but I know people use it and don't seam to have problems.