HyTran fluid and filter change 1810

[Grand Pops 1810]

Who ever wrote the Cub service manuals sure was good at being vague and conflicting info! I've got my 7 quarts of HyTran and a cub filter and a new differential cover gasket. That I could see, there was no section dedicated directly to fluid replacement. Didn't see anything in the Tech Archives either (completely possible I missed it). From what I gather, you remove the differential cover to drain the fluid and inspect internals. Do you use any parts cleaner while it is open, or just wipe out any accumulation and put back together? Does the gasket go on the cover dry, or is there a special sealant compatible with the HyTran? Refill slowly through the dipstick tube? I did see the torque spec in the manual for the cover bolts. Any of you use blue locktite on the cover bolts? Over $60 in parts, I want to get this right the first time!

[J-Mech]

If there is paraffin build-up, I would clean it with diesel fuel. That way any residual left will just mix with the Hy-tran. I STRONGLY recommend that you install the cork gasket dry. If anything, use weatherstrip adhesive to "glue" it to the cover. Use only weatherstrip adhesive, or gasket tack, DO NOT use silicone. We have found that silicone will let the gasket shift, and even if you let it set up, it will leak later. We use weatherstrip adhesive because it drys fast and holds tight. Never had any leaks that way either. No locktite on the cover bolts. And yes, slowly through the dipstick tube. I use a funnel attached to a 1' long piece of 5/16 steel brake line. That way air can come up while oil goes down. Works pretty good. Good luck!

[CADplans]

These differentials are somewhat similar from model to model.

My 1000 had a tremendous amount of gunk in the axle tubes.

If I had not removed the axle tubes and cleaned that area, the fluid change would have been a waste of time (&$!!)

I had so much gunk, the first trip around the yard would have recontaminated the fluid.

Sam Mac showed drilling holes to allow for future draining and cleanout.

He also showed a vent addition, which allows for quick fluid fills.

I sure hope he did those mods to the 2284!!

[Maxwelhse]

On all differentials, this is what I do (more or less confirming J's recommendation, but I've never tried weatherstrip adhesive since I've never found any that will even hold weatherstrip):

I use brake clean* to flood the housing (evaporates fast), a paper towel to sop up any excess from the bottom of the case, and hi tack (gasket tack) on both sides of the gasket. I hi tack the gasket to the cover and let it set up on the bench with some weight on it, then hi tack the other side of the gasket before installation.

I ANTI-SEIZE the bolts. No need to get crazy with the torque either. 15 ft-lbs MAX... LESS if its aluminum. You can always snug them up more later if it drips.

*exception: If you're ever working on an LSD differential, keep it away from the carrier since it "could" eat the clutches.

[Sam Mac]

Originally Posted by CADplans

These differentials are somewhat similar from model to model.

My 1000 had a tremendous amount of gunk in the axle tubes.

If I had not removed the axle tubes and cleaned that area, the fluid change would have been a waste of time (&$!!)

I had so much gunk, the first trip around the yard would have recontaminated the fluid.

Sam Mac showed drilling holes to allow for future draining and cleanout.

He also showed a vent addition, which allows for quick fluid fills.

I sure hope he did those mods to the 2284!!

CAD

Late Cyclops come from the factory with the vented case.

[CADplans]

Originally Posted by Sam Mac

CAD

Late Cyclops come from the factory with the vented case.

PHEW!!!