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#1
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782 Mower Deck Rebuild Questions
Good afternoon,
I have decided to rebuild the belly mower of my 782. Y'all have been a big help with my old Cubs. The pulleys are rusted away. The deck is in good shape. Here is my questions: 1. How easy is it to find parts for old mowers? 2. The middle blade has been removed with little effort. The two side blades have been been more difficult. How do I remove the top grease fitting (top nut) on the spindle? See pictures. I do not feel or see a set screw. When I block the blade and put a wrench on the blade bolt and the second nut the spindle turns as I try to loosen the nut. Any help will be appreciated. Thank you. mower 3.jpg mower 2.jpg |
#2
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A big squirt of WD40 may assist , let it soak in
Do you have access to a rattle gun that will certainly remove the nut As for the grease nipple it looks like a spanner on the bottom nut and a spanner on top nut and lefty loosie , of course spray them and let it soak in , however that may be a pressed in nipple Oz
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My wife says I do not listen , at least I think thats what she said |
#3
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Quote:
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Why Farm Half When You Can Farmall? 1282 | 44C Deck, Chains, 42" Blade, Cast Weights, 020" Over K301 * 1711 | 50C Deck, #1 Rear Rototiller w/ Extensions, Sleeve Hitch, KT17S Series II 24302 --> CH18S * 1811 | 46 GT Deck, 42" Blade, Chains, M18 Magnum, Sleeve Hitch * 1782 | 60" #375 Deck, Kubota D640 Diesel * 1862 | #450 Snowblower, M18 Magnum * 782 | Y/W KT17 Series II, Sleeve Hitch * 984 | Y/W Onan/Linamar 20HP, Sims Cab, CAT 0 3 PT w/ Rear PTO, 60" #374 Deck |
#4
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The pulley nut is keyed to the shaft. Hold that nut while you use a impact to take the blade nut off.
Edit: The pulley nut is the thicker one, under the thin one. Does that make sense?
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1572, 1864 x2, 1810 x2, 1863 & GT1554(Dad's Ole Mowers), 1811,782D, 1872 x2, 782DT(Sold), 3235, 1860, 1772 with 3-point and Turbo. |
#5
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All the parts you need are still available new.
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1572, 1864 x2, 1810 x2, 1863 & GT1554(Dad's Ole Mowers), 1811,782D, 1872 x2, 782DT(Sold), 3235, 1860, 1772 with 3-point and Turbo. |
#6
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Don't use WD-40. Get Kroil, PB Blaster or make your own with acetone mixed with automatic transmission fluid and spray it down good. As others have said, use an impact wrench. I use an electric impact wrench with good results if you don't have compressed air available.
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This ain't no hobby....it's an addiction |
#7
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Once you get the spindles off and take the strengthening plate off the top of the deck, you might find more of the deck rusted than you originally thought.
This is based on your small pix of what is left of the pulley. Not to rain on your parade,----- used decks are around, so don't be discouraged. Also, the later aluminum spindle housings will fit. An impact is always your friend as mentioned. |
#8
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George is right on the money here!
Will probably look like swiss cheese under that plate. Geesh, where was that thing, in the Titanic!!!?? |
#9
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Oak , Can you let me know why not to use WD 40 , I have used it to remove blade nuts for 22 years without drama If I am doing it wrong I need to know Oz
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My wife says I do not listen , at least I think thats what she said |
#10
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WD is just that, a Water Dispersant, not really a "penetrating oil"
There are other, better products. WD will not hurt anything but the best I have found is Kroil. We used to buy it in 5 gallon pairs and it is pricy! and stinks like a skunk, --- ok not that bad, but has a distinct offensive odor. But it works,--- others are nearly as good like liquid wench and PB blaster to name a few. |
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