1572 rear swap ??

[cnixon]

I have a 1572 with a broken transmission casting. Can I take a rear out of a 1711 or 1811 and put it in the 1572?. If so do I have to use the 1572 pump and will pump bolt right up to the 1711/1811 rear?

[Sam Mac]

Originally Posted by cnixon

I have a 1572 with a broken transmission casting. Can I take a rear out of a 1711 or 1811 and put it in the 1572?. If so do I have to use the 1572 pump and will pump bolt right up to the 1711/1811 rear?

Nope, gearing is different between the GT's and the Supers. Post some pics of the problem on your 1572 and I'll try to offer suggestions.

[cnixon]

Here's the best picture I can get until weekend. I have a transmission casting out of a 1811. Can I just move all parts over to that case.
image.jpg

[Sam Mac]

Easy fix. Go to Xtreme
http://www.xtrememotorworks.com/Part...ts%20Hydro.htm

Order this, bolt it on and be a happy camper.
CC-99-001 $130.00

[JLM78]

You can use The front haft of the rear end from 1811. That what I did .

[cnixon]

Believe that little hole there at the brake will leak correct? I think it would be easier just to buy used rear then rebuild this one down the road. It's been sitting outside with rear cover off and one axle off for 2 years.

On the up side I'm pretty happy I got it started today after sitting for 2 years outside. No power from key to starter (screw driver to jump starter) but key powers everything else up. The small red wire on starter is not getting power.

[Sam Mac]

Originally Posted by cnixon

Believe that little hole there at the brake will leak correct? I think it would be easier just to buy used rear then rebuild this one down the road. It's been sitting outside with rear cover off and one axle off for 2 years.

On the up side I'm pretty happy I got it started today after sitting for 2 years outside. No power from key to starter (screw driver to jump starter) but key powers everything else up. The small red wire on starter is not getting power.

Unless I'm looking at it wrong the broken part it the front mount. Very common for them to break on the Supers at that point. If you want to replace the adapter housing go for it. I've done a couple and they are a PITA. That's why I designed the rear-end braces. Here is a pic of a broken one, looks like yours. With the brace you don't even need the front mount. No oil will leak from the mount, it's a solid casting, the hole is a bolt hole.

[jaynjeep]

Originally Posted by Sam Mac

Unless I'm looking at it wrong the broken part it the front mount. Very common for them to break on the Supers at that point. If you want to replace the adapter housing go for it. I've done a couple and they are a PITA. That's why I designed the rear-end braces. Here is a pic of a broken one, looks like yours. With the brace you don't even need the front mount. No oil will leak from the mount, it's a solid casting, the hole is a bolt hole.

The braces Sam is referring to work great!! I would highly recommend them even if you do replace the housing.. But like he said you don't even need the front mounts with these braces.. They stiffen the whole tractor... It's amazing the difference they make. I won't run another alum rear without them. It's something cub cadet should have done.

Either way... good luck with your project!!

[cnixon]

Ok. I'm just going to go with another complete rear. I will go and install the rear end brackets your telling me about to stop this from happening again. Here's a picture of tractor just how I got it.
image.jpg