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  #1  
Old 06-10-2023, 09:43 AM
zer0vector zer0vector is offline
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Default Help removing bearing holder in flywheel cup

Cub Cadet 1000 with the 10 HP Kohler motor.

Picture to start:



I'm trying to remove the pressed in ring in the center of the hub adapter/flywheel cup there. I believe it's part #29 here:

https://www.partstree.com/models/100...ctor/clutch-5/

Part #21 is already removed (it came out in several well-worn pieces).

Is that ring removable from the outside, and if so, any tips? I've tried a couple different pullers and the depth difference between the back edge of the ring and the large nut is so small, nothing I have can get in between.

I don't believe I can get a socket on the flywheel nut either (to remove the entire hub adapter), unless there's some special low profile one that will fit. The picture is a little deceptive, there's not really any space between the edges of the nut and the ring if you look at it straight on, nowhere for a socket to go.

I think the nut is 102 over on the engine parts page:

https://www.partstree.com/models/100...horsepower-12/

It's holding on the flywheel cup, which is 105 on that same page. The bearing ring from the clutch parts page is pressed into that adapter.

Looks like the nut is a 5/8-18, but again, the largest socket I have that will fit through the ring is too small to fit around the nut.

I just don't see any other way to get the hub off without removing that ring. I wanted to ask before trying to make some ridiculous puller device. Any help is appreciated!
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  #2  
Old 06-10-2023, 10:32 AM
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ironman ironman is offline
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Just a suggestion, I would try tapping some type of thin blade (such as a putty knife) under the outer lip (see arrow) and try to get it up enough to pry it out with something bigger.
Once out, you will have plenty of room for a socket to go on the nut.
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  #3  
Old 06-10-2023, 12:03 PM
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darkminion_17 darkminion_17 is offline
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Are you wanting to remove the flywheel? otherwise get a new ball bushing # 21
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  #4  
Old 06-10-2023, 01:57 PM
finsruskw finsruskw is offline
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Lew, I think his problem is the clutch driver has torn loose from the pressed in bushing and ruined the driver in the process and he is trying to salvage whatever he can, And the driver is stuck fast in the flywheel.
I suggest soaking the parts w/some good penetrant and cross your fingers.
Good luck!

Looks like he is going to need some expen$ive parts here.
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  #5  
Old 06-10-2023, 02:08 PM
zer0vector zer0vector is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by finsruskw View Post
Lew, I think his problem is the clutch driver has torn loose from the pressed in bushing and ruined the driver in the process and he is trying to salvage whatever he can, And the driver is stuck fast in the flywheel.
I suggest soaking the parts w/some good penetrant and cross your fingers.
Good luck!

Looks like he is going to need some expen$ive parts here.
Nothing has torn loose of anything, the driver was removed from the flywheel cup via the 4 bolt holes. On the 1000 they are separate parts, as shown on the clutch parts page linked above.

I do need to access the nut so just replacing the ball bushing (#21) isn't an option at the moment.

I will attempt to go in via the edge with a blade as suggested above and report back. I also have an idea for a puller that might take some bolts and some work with a dremel if that fails.
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  #6  
Old 06-10-2023, 03:49 PM
greg r greg r is offline
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I'd go with a thinner wall socket. If you can't find one make one on a grinder.
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  #7  
Old 06-10-2023, 04:17 PM
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CubDieselFan CubDieselFan is online now
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How much clearance is behind the bushing?

I use to work at a rebuild shop. We rebuilt lathes, mills, grinders, all machine tools. If they needed to remove a bushing in a blind hole: 1st they would make a shaft the same size as the bushing, very tight fit. Next pack it with grease and leave some room to start the shaft in the bushing. Then they would beat on the shaft with a mallet. If there is clearance in the back of the bushing and it is a blind hole, the grease will push the bushing out. I was amazed thr first time I saw it done.

Not sure if this will work on this application but it might.
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  #8  
Old 06-10-2023, 04:25 PM
zer0vector zer0vector is offline
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Thanks for all the ideas, I used a combination of them and did just finally get it removed.

I ended up sacrificing one jaw of a puller which I ground down until I had a tiny long-armed pry-bar with a small foot on the end, small enough to slip behind the ring and rest on the nut. Then I used that inside the bore to very slightly pry up in one spot and went round and round.

Eventually there was enough of a gap that I could fit a sharpened screwdriver behind the lip (before it was almost flush) and much to my annoyance it's not a lip, it's an angled edge! Arg, not the best for prying against but went back to my internal pry bar round and round tapping it with a hammer and walking the ring out one fraction of a millimeter at a time.

Here's a picture of that annoying lip



Thanks for all the tips, on to the next task!
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  #9  
Old 06-10-2023, 04:36 PM
zer0vector zer0vector is offline
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Also to CubDieselFan I had thought about the grease/bread ideas but two problems:

1. There's a lot of space back there, it would take a fair bit of grease and I'm not even sure it's sealed, the grease might just find its way out another passage.

2. I don't have a shaft or anything that fits the bore. That *used* to hold a ball bushing race, and that bushing is the 5/8 drive shaft diameter. I'm not even sure what the inner diameter of the ring was.
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  #10  
Old 06-10-2023, 05:08 PM
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I remember using a fine sawzall blade and cut 2 notches in it, then used a slide hammer with a hook on it to remove the rest.
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