Cub Cadet 1450 engine removal

[IHCub1450]

I need to remove the engine on my 1450 Cub. I was able to get the two rear bolts off without any trouble, but the two on the front, that sit above the axel are the ones I'm having trouble with.
Do I need to remove the axel to remove all the engine mounting bolts? Or is there a special tool that I should use, such as a shallow socket?
It seems odd that the axel would have to come off, but maybe.
And if the axel does need to come off, how would I achieve this?

[IHCubCadet147]

There’s no need to remove the axle. Jack up the front of the tractor so the axle can pivot down, giving you more room. A ratchet wrench works best for them.

[West Valley G]

As said if you use a jack to open up some space it will help a lot.
Oh and try not to think about how hard it is to get them back in.
You will have plenty of time when the time comes to scratch your head and
stare at it. Good luck. It just takes patience.

Ken

[jbrewer]

Originally Posted by IHCubCadet147

There’s no need to remove the axle. Jack up the front of the tractor so the axle can pivot down, giving you more room. A ratchet wrench works best for them.

Yup... ratcheting box wrench is the ticket.

Good to remember what your finger would look like if the jack slips, etc.

IH/Kohler had a few of these odd designs (the rear carb bolt is another)

[IHCub1450]

Thank you everybody for the help.
I'll have to buy a bigger rachet wrench set, the biggest I have 1/2" and I think the bolts on the front will be 9/16" since that's what the rear ones were.

Does the ratchet wrench need to be the offset style, or it doesn't matter?

I suppose getting them back in will be the most fun part.

[finsruskw]

As mentioned above, raise the machine and properly support it by the frame rails as you will need to pivot the axle from side to side. Remove both wheels as well to make it easier to work around.

Ratcheting box end is fine, to get it a bit loose.
BUT, don't back it out too far w/that wrench unless it is the type you can change direction without flipping it over.

Other wise, you may not be able to extract the wrench from the bolt head from the tight spot it will be in! Best to finish removing them w/your fingers once loose enough to turn that way.

Reinstall the same way, much easier once everything is cleaned up/

Also, this will be a perfect to check for fore, aft and axial slop in the axle "C" channel and address that issue if present by squeezing it back into spec and/or adding shims or new pin w/bushings if needed.

While you are in this far, make sure the grease Zerks, (3of them), in the axle pivot and knuckle ends are operable and will take grease.

Your oil pan may be either aluminum or cast iron. If aluminum, be sure to check for wear in and around the mounting holes as there may be issues there that need attention as well such as stripped or worn threads etc.

If you are lucky enough to have a cast iron pan, there should be no issues if all 4 bolts were tight.

Good luck and enjoy your Cub, they are great machines and much more simple to work on compared to what is now available.

[IHCub1450]

Originally Posted by finsruskw

As mentioned above, raise the machine and properly support it by the frame rails as you will need to pivot the axle from side to side. Remove both wheels as well to make it easier to work around.

Ratcheting box end is fine, to get it a bit loose.
BUT, don't back it out too far w/that wrench unless it is the type you can change direction without flipping it over.

Other wise, you may not be able to extract the wrench from the bolt head from the tight spot it will be in! Best to finish removing them w/your fingers once loose enough to turn that way.

Reinstall the same way, much easier once everything is cleaned up/

Also, this will be a perfect to check for fore, aft and axial slop in the axle "C" channel and address that issue if present by squeezing it back into spec and/or adding shims or new pin w/bushings if needed.

While you are in this far, make sure the grease Zerks, (3of them), in the axle pivot and knuckle ends are operable and will take grease.

Your oil pan may be either aluminum or cast iron. If aluminum, be sure to check for wear in and around the mounting holes as there may be issues there that need attention as well such as stripped or worn threads etc.

If you are lucky enough to have a cast iron pan, there should be no issues if all 4 bolts were tight.

Good luck and enjoy your Cub, they are great machines and much more simple to work on compared to what is now available.

Thank you, that is very helpful.
I'll keep everyone updated on the progress and if there is anything else I need help with.

[IHCubCadet147]

If you haven’t already, I would recommend you check out your rubber motor mounts and driveshaft for excessive wear too while you have the engine out.

[IHCub1450]

Originally Posted by IHCubCadet147

If you haven’t already, I would recommend you check out your rubber motor mounts and driveshaft for excessive wear too while you have the engine out.

Will do, thanks for the advice.
I haven't pulled the engine yet, as I don't have the correct size of rachet wrench, I'm going to the hardware store later to get the correct size wrench.

Unrelated, but what kind of jack should I use to lift it?
I have a floor jack, is there something better to use?

[DSarow]

I have to give finsruskw a lot of credit for the excellent response.The wrench selection is spot on.A non reversing ratchet wrench in that situation could be real trouble.When you get the bolts initially loose,use a short open end.When you reassemble, don't take chances on the conditions of the bolt heads,threads ,lengths. And when you get it supported with the wheels off,give it a little wiggle and push before you get under it.Those pesky bolts might be tight and you don't want to pull it off you supports.Good luck,