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#1
10-30-2022, 08:39 PM
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Cat 1, 3 Point Arms. How Long?
One of my winter projects is to build a hybrid 3 point/sleeve hitch for my 149. The sleeve hitch is on it now and is operated by a 2" cylinder mounted under the lift. I'd like to know how far behind the tractor should the lift eyes on the arms be. I've seen anywhere from 23" to 30" for eye to eye measurements. Even 23" seems quite far back, to me. I've got a #2 tiller with a 14 hp motor on it and soon depth control tires. I figure just over three hundred pounds.
I can make the arms any length. My sleeve hitch is 13" from diff to pin. On the tiller I added 2" to the top bars and 3" to the bottom for more lift range without hitting the seat pan. The tiller lifts easily, but the farther back it goes the more effort it will take. I also plan to convert the tiller to 3 point attachment. I'm actually leaning to 18" or even a bit less eye to eye on the arms. That measurement being a straight line from the diff to a line through the eyes. Am I way off base for some reason I haven't thought of? 
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#3
10-31-2022, 08:16 AM
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The General Specification, for a CAT 0 lower arm length, is 21".
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#4
10-31-2022, 10:23 AM
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Is this a #2 tiller powered by the front PTO?
If so, you will need a longer belt to run it if you move the unit rearward. I have run a #2 behind my 1650 for 10 years now w/no issues using the stock parts and 3 point. They are already set up for 3 point operation. Seems to me a lot of work for no gain considering the price of that long belt.
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#5
10-31-2022, 11:44 AM
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When I bought the 149, it came with the tiller but no mule drive, belt or corner drive and mount. Ole' George gave me the measurements to built the mounting plate, which I did. Rounding up those parts in my Cub barren area proved to be a problem, plus the price of the belt.
I already had a spare 14 HP motor laying around, so I mounted that on the tiller for a total cost of about $150. I have more lift range and capacity with the 2" cylinder out back. There will never be a mower on this tractor or other belt driven implements. After a few hours cruising the 'net I'm leaning toward Cat 1 width and Cat 0 length on the lower arms. I've found manufactured Cat O arms from 13" to 23". So it boils down to how far behind your Cub are you comfortably lifting four hundred pounds. Counterweight on the front is not an issue. As I was mulling this over, I realized that the only sleeve hitch implements I have are a 10" Brinley plow and a disc which I made to mount on the sleeve hitch and I can convert that to three point. Maybe I should just go to three point only? Generally speaking, I have material, time and equipment to fab and modify and I'm no coward when it comes re-engineering or re-building. (which sometimes gets me in trouble!) But, I'm also keenly aware that I can overlook things that others with a wealth of experience and knowledge can show me the light on. I have to split the tractor this winter to replace the cork gasket and I'll likely rebuild the hydro at the same time. So when I'm that far, it's a good time to do any other major mods, like torque tamers and few other convenience items.
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Cub Cadet is a premium line of outdoor power equipment, established in 1961 as part of International Harvester. During the 1960s, IH initiated an entirely new line of lawn and garden equipment aimed at the owners rural homes with large yards and private gardens. There were a wide variety of Cub Cadet branded and after-market attachments available; including mowers, blades, snow blowers, front loaders, plows, carts, etc. Cub Cadet advertising at that time harped on their thorough testing by "boys - acknowledged by many as the world's worst destructive force!". Cub Cadets became known for their dependability and rugged construction.
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