1810 Hard Start After Sitting

[El Dee]

My Cub is a 1986 1810 with the Kohler Magnum 18 HP. I've owned it since 1996 and have performed every service done since. The Cub retired to my beach house years ago and returns here in late winter for oil and such related stuff. Sometimes it can sit for 2/3 weeks between uses. A few years back it got hard to start after sitting. That can be remedied by pulling the air filter lids and shooting a squirt of gas into the carb. After the initial start it starts as it should and also runs as it should. The carb should be clean as I hit it a couple of times a summer with Sea Foam in the tank. Now in past research I concluded the gas in the fuel bowl was simply evaporating and it was taking an extreme amount of cranking to get gas back in the bowl. Being it was an 86 and I knew the fuel pump looked original I suspected that. I researched again. I ended up mounting a Holley electric pump that's gravity fed from the tank. I also added a Wix clear filter to observe fuel flow. Alls good there. It didn't solve the issue nor did it help. It is an 86 and still running with an all original engine though. I try and keep it humming. Any thoughts on the hard start issue??? Temps don't seem to matter and even after a 24 hour sit it starts to become difficult and increases with time. It has only had non-ethanol gas ran in it.

[1711Cub]

First, verify choke operation. Then, I would verify if the spark is strong. If that checks out, then verify compression. If the compression pressure is lower than spec, it will not start good. If that is OK, then rebuilding the carb should be next. Just running seafoam through it is not enough.

[El Dee]

I've not done a compression test but once fired up the M18 runs strong. Choke and spark are good. I've cleaned the carb before due to trash and use the Sea Foam to keep it clean. Other than the hard start after sitting there are no other issues. A shot of gas beforehand and it starts right up. I'm gonna check on a rebuild kit for the carb and have a look into it.

[nra1ifer]

I had a 1994 Craftsman GT with the 18HP magnum engine that did the same thing. I don't know what caused it, but I did the same thing: shot of gas with the air filter removed, then it would start and run fine. I sold that GT to a fine young man that was mowing lawns. He still has it, still has to squirt some gas into the carb if it has been sitting....... but he LOVE's that GT!

[Club Cadet]

El Dee - I'm having the same problem on the same tractor at the moment. 1711Cub has some good advice about checking simple spark and compression first, but as history has proven again and again "it is never the simple stuff" LOL JK!

What I find interesting is that I have also monkeyed with the OEM fuel delivery system on the tractor. You have added an electronic fuel pump while I have installed a new mechanical pump and added a electronic fuel shut off solenoid. My current setup has work perfectly for over 12 months now and only recently has the tractor become "cranky" (pun intended).

I'm not sure how you have you fuel pump wired but I was only able to figure out how to get my fuel shut off to have power when the key was in the "run" position. While cranking the fuel shut off is closed. Until now that setup was zero problems unless I ran it out of gas. When I had the manual shutoff I would constantly forget to open it before I started the tractor and moved it out of the shed. So I know there is enough fuel in the bowl, pump, and lines to start and run the tractor for a few minutes even with the solenoid closed while cranking.

I suspect its a carb issue. I have rebuilt this carb twice already and given the price of a new one from Norm I think I'm going to order up a minty fresh one and go from there. These carbs are known for having a leaky float valves and gravity feeding the cylinders full of fuel when parked, depending on the fuel level in the tank. Been there done that, that's why I installed the electronic fuel shutoff on my machine. I'd image your electronic fuel pump does not let fuel pass when it is not powered on either.

[Club Cadet]

I forgot to mention I also only run ethanol free fuel and the machine runs like a top after it starts - lots of power no smoke - easy to start for about a day afterwards.

[1711Cub]

So, I have had hard starting issues with a couple of my machines, but only if they sat more than a few days. It ended up being the fuel pumps. There are check valves in the OEM mechanical pumps. In both cases, the check valves had fallen out of the plastic housing. One I rebuilt the pumps with new diaphragms, and staked the check valves in place, the hard starts ended.

I know you have replaced the pump with an electric, so this might not be your issue.

[R Bedell]

only if they sat more than a few days. It ended up being the fuel pumps.

That has been my experience also. Repair, replace, or install a Electric Fuel Pump, has been the cure in my circumstances.

[El Dee]

Well my float valve must be working properly as I've never shut off the tank valve unless I was doing maintenance. It has never dumped gas nor has the oil ever had any indication there was a problem. I give it the sniff test. Once the engine is running there is no indication of cylinder or valve issues. I've always used Valvoline Racing VR1 straight 30 with a 1/4 cut of Lucas Heavy Duty. Always a new Kohler air filter with new foam lubricated with air filter oil yearly. There was an International dealer locally and there were many Cubs around. My maintenance schedule and oil recipe has left my Cub as the only one still cutting. It has just seized the first spindle in all that time. I ordered in a new battery yesterday and I'll get it out of the trailer and into the shop later today.

It's been a couple of years since the Holley Electric conversion. I'm not sure if there is 12V to the pump in the start position but I will be checking that. I've got test leads and if there is no 12V at start I can easily test 12V constant. I let the pump operate a few seconds before starting. I was double dang sure the pump conversion would solve the issue. My factory pump is gutted and just a block off plate now. I see my member status is listed as new. Actually I've been here many years but have only been a "reader" until now. I appreciate the replies and don't hesitate to keep them coming.

[ironman]

Originally Posted by Club Cadet

I'm not sure how you have you fuel pump wired but I was only able to figure out how to get my fuel shut off to have power when the key was in the "run" position. While cranking the fuel shut off is closed. Until now that setup was zero problems unless I ran it out of gas. When I had the manual shutoff I would constantly forget to open it before I started the tractor and moved it out of the shed. So I know there is enough fuel in the bowl, pump, and lines to start and run the tractor for a few minutes even with the solenoid closed while cranking.

You could consider something like this using a 5 pin automotive relay.

With no power to the relay coil pins 87A and 30 are contacted.
Pin 87A is wired to the starter solenoid engage terminal (the "S" lead from the key switch) and pin 30 is the hot lead to the fuel solenoid.
Power on pin 86 operates the relay

With the key switch in the off position the relay is at rest, pins 87A and 30 are contacted but there is no power from the key switch so the fuel solenoid is off.

When the key switch is in the run position power is applied to pins 86 and 87. Power on 86 operates the relay which contacts 87 to 30 and powers the fuel solenoid.

When the key switch is in the start position power is removed from the relay, 87A and 30 are back in contact but the power on the solenoid lead from the key switch is fed through to the fuel solenoid allowing it to operate so you have fuel flow while cranking.

I have not tried this, just dreamed it up from reading your post.