Wide frame PTO OK on a Narrow frame?

[TheSaturnV]

Hey all.

The PTO in the photo is a replacement I bought from someone one here at OCC. After doing some research, it appears to be a type B for the later wide frames. I bought a refurb kit, which came with 2 of the flat type springs, and I installed them both.

When I got the PTO lever and turnbuckle assembly installed and gave it a test, it was so hard to pull that I actually sheared the temporary bolt I had sitting in the lever actuator. Don't know what I was thinking, there's no way that much force would be needed just to engage a mower deck!

I carefully built and adjusted the PTO to specs, and used the alignment tool. Any ideas? Maybe a WF PTO cannot be used on an NF? Should I take out one of the springs? Any ideas are greatly appreciated.

[drglinski]

Saturn V

I'm not specifically sure if the WF pto would be causing issues in a NF tractor, but I do know that a pto won't appear to be working properly without some sort of tension on it- IE a belt running to a mower, snow thrower, tiller, etc. When I first installed a rebuilt pto on my 147 I didn't have any resistance on it- I was trying to adjust it via turnbuckle and kept blowing apart fiber buttons. No resistance on my PTO will cause it to spin in the engaged and disengaged positions. Also you probably should only have one type of spring.

[Yosemite Sam]

Is the back side of the flat spring hitting the end of the crank shaft?

[TheSaturnV]

Ok, I have sort of the opposite thing going. The PTO will not spin freely at any time. If I understand them correctly, I should be able to put the lever in the disengage position, and then grab the outermost part of the PTO and move it while holding the yellow pulley/basket stationary.

As far as the springs, they are both the same type. They are doubled up.

Thanks for chiming in.

[TheSaturnV]

Originally Posted by Yosemite Sam

Is the back side of the flat spring hitting the end of the crank shaft?

Just took it apart. The bearing is flush with the end of the crankshaft and the snap ring is in place. Used the gauge to check how far the springs are bowed in, and I cannot see how they could touch the end of the crankshaft.

I checked the adjustment again with the gauge, and it was off. The small protrusions that go in and touch the springs weren't touching, so I loosened the 3 jam nut sets a little until the gauge read correctly.

Put it back on the crank, made NO difference. Excessive amount of force to disengage and still the clutch will not budge. This one has me stumped.

[DoubleO7]

The disengage lever and button only moves so much. There is no adjustment there in as how much it can push the center button on the pto.

If the flat springs are being pushed into the end of the crank, it won't go no further and likely will not disengage the pto at the same time.
With engine off, did you try turning the pto by hand as the lever is gradually moved into the disengage position?
Maybe it disengages just slightly before the flat springs get smashed into the crank?
At that point you can't turn it by hand either.

The PTO bearing is installed flush with the end of the crank ?
Just a spring thickness too far on the crank and it is too far on.

[TheSaturnV]

Just to clarify, the PTO is supposed to be driven onto the crankshaft until the large snap ring bottoms out, correct? So, this snap ring is bottoming out against the bearing. In turn, if the bearing is too far on the crankshaft....even just a little...then problems.

I'm going to pull the PTO off again and reset the bearing/collar further away from the motor.....

[DoubleO7]

You have the bearing locked onto the crank shaft via the eccentric collar so it stays in position, right?

According to Mr. Bedell's pto parts chart, http://www.onlycubcadets.net/forum/showthread.php?t=9
all part numbers are the same except for the friction disc, snap ring & tri-Star springs.
The pulley numbers are the same although they changed appearances over the years.
Apparently they are all interchangeable.

And your wear button is not touching the thrust button before you move the disengage lever, right?

[TheSaturnV]

Yes, locking collar is secured with set screw after being locked onto shaft. I can't see how to get the collar down REAL tight, because it seems to tighten up to a point and then loosen up again as you pass sweet spot. So I get it tight as it will allow, then lock down the set screw.

Part 2, yes the wear button is just slightly off of the PTO button. I shot a quick video and will post it in a minute. THANKs everyone for trying to help.

[Alvy]

Saturn I have a WF pto on one of my NFs with no problems. As a matter of fact I think IH came out with a bulletin to retro fit the older NFs with the new WF ptos in the 70s.