So.. you have a bad water pump? There are options!

[FrankF3]

I had a bad water pump on my 782D, so I bit the bullet and bought one at the cheapest price I could find for about $ 125 if I remember correctly. Although partstree has them for..... Sitting down?... $ 226.48 . I thought there has to be a better way, so I sourced up the parts to rebuild it. The bearing assembly, KB15852-73550 (although they sent me a KB15841-73550) cost $ 26.76 and the seal kit KB15852-73050 (although they sent me a KB15841-73050) cost $ 13.82

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First thing done was to remove the flange where the pulley mounts. This was done with an arbor press to press the shaft from the flange.

Next, wasn't as easy, to remove the business end of the pump. This was done by heating the impeller with a torch (and with 3 hands, apply an upward pressure between the pump body and the impeller while heating the impeller with the torch) When hot enough, it simply popped off.

Next was to support the water pump housing and drive the bearing assembly out of it TOWARD the pulley flange end while tapping on the impeller end ( now removed)

Lastly, was to drive the seal out of the impeller housing TOWARD the impeller side of the pump.

With a little clean-up, now it's time to put it all back together. This shows the part removed and the empty housing.

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The first thing I put in was the seal assembly. I used a 1" socket as a driver to drive it home on the impeller side. The seal is shown along side the housing. Then you can see the installed seal in the next 2 shots from either side of the housing.

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The next item in was the bearing assembly. I used an arbor press to push it in from the pulley side with the short end of the shaft towards the pulley. Again I used a 1" socket to press on the barrel of the bearing assembly and NOT the shaft. You don't want to cause brinell damage by exerting excess force on the shaft and ruining the bearings. The next shots show the bearing installed. The bearing barrel is installed flush to the housing nose.

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Next comes the pulley flange. This was pretty simple in an arbor press driving on the opposite end of the shaft until the end of the shaft was flush to the face of the flange. Make sure the step on the flange points AWAY from the housing.

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Now the remaining part of the seal. BE CAREFUL with this piece it is ceramic and will break if you even look at it wrong. Make sure the white side faces the portion of the seal already installed. I placed some antifreeze on the seal face so it would not be dry.

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Center the ceramic portion of the seal on the shaft, then CAREFULLY, using an arbor press, drive the impeller on until the shaft is flush with the opposite face.

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Only thing that remains, is to paint it up once I get a can from my local Kubota Dealer. I hope this helps someone else out with their water pumps.

[Oak]

Great job Frank! This needs to go in the tech section.

[FrankF3]

Thanks Oak. I was less intimidated by rebuilding the water pump than with rebuilding the hydro-steering unit assembly. Still building up my resolve to handle that one!

[cubcadet]

Good work.

[darkminion_17]

Originally Posted by cubcadet

Good work.

What he said...
How much for a new one by the way????

[FrankF3]

Originally Posted by darkminion_17

What he said...
How much for a new one by the way????

Depends on the source....

Partstree = $ 226.48
M & D = $ 108.01

[red56turbo]

Frank,
Nice job on the water pump rebuild. I agree with Todd. Should get moved to the tech section.

Like I told you in the steering thread, I think you're quite capable of rebuilding the power steering on your Super. That's how we all learn, by doing research and jumping in with that learned knowledge. We've all got to start somewhere, learn to crawl before we walk so to speak.

Again, nice job. Thanks for searching out the part numbers. I'll be keeping this thread close by since I've got a few Cubs with this water pump.

[FrankF3]

BTW - The crusty/rusty nipple sticking out of the side of the water pump will unscrew out of the body using the slot found at the end of the nipple. It can be found as part number KB-15531-73340 and currently goes for $ 12.24 if you desire to replace it as well.

[Sam Mac]

Thought I'd add to this thread. Kubota has changed the design of the pump on the late 2182's and 1782's that have the coolant recovery tank. The impeller is now a stamped steel part. I'm in the process of replacing the pump on a 2182. Not sure if I can get the old one apart without damaging the impeller so I am going to put a new pump in. I may see if I can get it apart later. Pics of the late style pump.

[FrankF3]

Sam, heat the impeller up with an oxy-acetylene torch until almost cherry red while applying and upward pressure to get it off of the shaft. I can see those vanes bending very easily. Funny thing, PartsTree lists the same pump for the 1572 as well as for the LATEST partsbreak in serial numbers for the 2182, YET if you look at the timing case cover you can clearly see the elongated water passage that your pump has on the 2182, while the earlier models do not show this passage on the timing case cover.