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Thread Tools | Display Modes |
#1
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No spark, no start
Hi,
My 129 Hydrostat was running fine until yesterday. Then it started and stopped intermittently, and eventually didn't start at all. Having had alot of old electrical equipment in there, I figured it was time to replace some of it. I overhauled the carb - although this had been done over the past winter and so I doubt if it really needed it again - everything looked fine - but I replaced the battery, plug, voltage regulator, replaced and set new points and coil/condenser, and new wire between coil and plug. After all that, nada. I do not have any gauges or multimeter, etc. and so can't test for voltage anywhere. I just figured that with all that I replaced I had a pretty good shot at getting it to run. There is still no spark! It cranks but does not turn over. I'm about ready to give it to my local IH repairman, who has already been so patient with my many questions today about how to polarize a new voltage regulator and set points! I'm not afraid to tackle mechanical problems but it certainly doesn't come second-nature to me either. Any other suggestions on what I might try before I send it on its way? I really don't think there is much else I can do with it at this point. Thanks, three4rd |
#2
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What about the wire from the points to the coil?? Did you replace that, I had similar issue and it was a very small break in the points to coil wire and it was shorting out. Only thing I can think of, good luck bud and welcome to OCC!!
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#3
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Make sure your PTO safety switch and brake safety switch are working correctly. The PTO safety switch is up in behind the steering tower by ignition switch and the brake safety switch can be seen if you take the tunnel cover off. If they aren't working you won't get spark.
__________________
DWayne 1973: 128, ag tires, 3pt. lift, spring assist, lights, 42" Deck 10" moldboard plow 2016 XT1 42" deck 18HP |
#4
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No...did not replace that one...crap! It looked ok except for the top part of the wire insulation is a bit frayed near the top where it connects to the coil. There is NO way am I going back into that points box...I must have spent 2 hours on that alone. I had everything done - points set, etc., everything all tight and then realized I forgot to attach the wire you are referring to. So everything back off again - since I really couldn't attach the wire with the points assembly attached to the tractor.
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#5
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DWayne,
How do I make sure these switches are working?? Like I said, I don't have any guages or test equipment. I could take off the cover in front of the seat..I know the one you mean...but what do I look for once I get to that point?? The other switch....the one you are saying is behind the steering...I have no idea what to look for there. |
#6
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First you need to download this service manual for your cub and become familiar with it. It will show where each item is and what it will look like.
http://ccmanuals.info/pdf/1x8-9%20&%...e%20Manual.pdf Then run to your local auto parts store and pick up a cheap multimeter. You would then set the multimeter to infinity and place the two probes one each on the switch connectors. Engage and disengage the switch with the PTO lever and the brake pedal and your should instantly see a difference in the multimeter display. If you do not see a difference that particular switch is bad. Each switch has an electrical connector with two wires connected to it. Pull these connectors off of the switches. On another note, make sure all of your negative ground connections are clean with a good clean ground and are tight. Battery, battery to chassis, engine to chassis
__________________
DWayne 1973: 128, ag tires, 3pt. lift, spring assist, lights, 42" Deck 10" moldboard plow 2016 XT1 42" deck 18HP |
#7
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Quote:
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[B]Roland Bedell[/B] CC Models: 100, 105, 1450, 782, (2) 784, & 2072 [SIZE="4"][B][COLOR="Red"]Buy:[/COLOR][COLOR="Blue"] Made in the USA[/COLOR][/B] [/SIZE]:American Flag 1: |
#8
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I don't know...it's the original wire that came with the tractor.
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#9
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DWayne...thanks for that link!
Yes, you're absolutely correct...I need to get a better grasp on how everything works. It's just that, for me, this stuff is sooooo time consuming. I spent the better part of the 5-6 hours replacing the items I mentioned. And then was totally frustrated that it still didn't start.
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#10
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Quote:
__________________
DWayne 1973: 128, ag tires, 3pt. lift, spring assist, lights, 42" Deck 10" moldboard plow 2016 XT1 42" deck 18HP |
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Cub Cadet is a premium line of outdoor power equipment, established in 1961 as part of International Harvester. During the 1960s, IH initiated an entirely new line of lawn and garden equipment aimed at the owners rural homes with large yards and private gardens. There were a wide variety of Cub Cadet branded and after-market attachments available; including mowers, blades, snow blowers, front loaders, plows, carts, etc. Cub Cadet advertising at that time harped on their thorough testing by "boys - acknowledged by many as the world's worst destructive force!". Cub Cadets became known for their dependability and rugged construction.
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