982 magnum 18 repower help.

[NascarFastcar]

Hello I purchased a 982 that was completely taken apart. I mean every nut a bolt.
I've been slowly putting it back together and repainting as needed.
It also came with a magnum 18 out of a 1872 along with 2 wire harnesses and and battery tray from a 1872 with the solenoid attached.
The one harness I believe is original to the onan and has its down solenoid still attached. (Plus it has red overpsray on it)
So I'm assuming the other harness is for the m18 out of a 1872.
I believe this all was together at some point 5 years ago when the guy was original going to restore it but never had the time to reassemble.
Now my questions begin as I have never owned any cub cadet before.
1) How can I determine the keyswitch I have? I'm assuming it's from a 1872.
2) will the 982 driveshaft work?
3) wiring diagram? I'm assuming I should just follow for the 1872? (No rear pto)
4) thru the hardware there are a few spacers. Does the magnum 18 mount directly to the engine plate in a 982 or are these spacers used?

[sorner]

I have the 982's cousin, the 1912. It had a bad Onan in it when I got it and I swapped it out with a Magnum M18, and later an M20. That tractor is a beast... that said, if you have the wiring harness from an 1872 you're in good shape. The key switch is pretty much the same, I'm not sure how to tell them apart visually, but internally, the wire that would go to the coil(s) for the Onan would have battery 12v at the wire to the coil while the key is on and not have 12v when the key is off, while the Magnum should be "open" with the key on, and grounded with the key off. You want to make sure you have the right one, because applying 12v to a coil the magnum will ruin it. My 1912 rather than replacing the wiring harness, I used a relay to get around the wiring difference so the 12v controls the relay and grounds/opens the coil circuit, there are posts about that here I think.

Yes the driveshaft should work.

I have spacers under my magnum, about 1/2" if I remember.

[NascarFastcar]

Originally Posted by sorner

I have the 982's cousin, the 1912. It had a bad Onan in it when I got it and I swapped it out with a Magnum M18, and later an M20. That tractor is a beast... that said, if you have the wiring harness from an 1872 you're in good shape. The key switch is pretty much the same, I'm not sure how to tell them apart visually, but internally, the wire that would go to the coil(s) for the Onan would have battery 12v at the wire to the coil while the key is on and not have 12v when the key is off, while the Magnum should be "open" with the key on, and grounded with the key off. You want to make sure you have the right one, because applying 12v to a coil the magnum will ruin it. My 1912 rather than replacing the wiring harness, I used a relay to get around the wiring difference so the 12v controls the relay and grounds/opens the coil circuit, there are posts about that here I think.

Yes the driveshaft should work.

I have spacers under my magnum, about 1/2" if I remember.

Thanks for the reply.
There are two wiring harnesses that came with. I'm assuming ones from the onan and ones from the m18 from the 1872.
This was all together at one point with the m18 in it years ago. But it was taken apart to repair the frame and basically restore the tractor.
And thank you about the spacers. Should the driveshaft be level with the frame?

[sorner]

I don’t know off the top of my head how to tell the wiring harnesses apart.

I don’t know about if the driveshaft should be level with the frame but it should be close to 90 degrees to the engine. Any difference there and it will stress the rag joints and the couplers.

[1711Cub]

https://www.partstree.com/parts/cub-cadet-750-3009/

Still available through Cub Cadet, but so simple, some can be manufactured.

Spacer, .423 X .675 X .469 Lg

[ol'George]

Do a search on this site, I and others posted some years past, the sizes of the spacers,----- but thinking you mentioned you have them?
As far as wiring harnesses:
You want the one that does not have a power wire to a coil as the magnums have a magneto on the engine head,-- no separate ignition coil.
And the ignition switch will have an "M" terminal. for the magnum.
That is connected to a small brass piece that is crimped on the switch zinc housing.
When the switch is turned to "stop/off" it grounds the magneto using the "M" terminal to stop it.
The wire that exits the harness near the voltage regulator 3 prong plug will have a white wire going to the magneto kill wire.
That white wire comes out of the grommet on the fan housing between the spark plug wires.
hope this helps
follow the wiring diagram while ringing out the wires to assure the correct wires go to the correct terminals/connectors
Are you having fun yet?

[NascarFastcar]

Yes I assume I have the spacers. There's 4 bolts with spacers and yellow paint so...
I'm not close to dropping the mag back in yet. I just got the rear back on the frame and I'm having fun googleing pictures to see how stuff went lol.
What's really setting me back is I'm missing the little retainer type pin for the lift cylinder.

[NascarFastcar]

Originally Posted by ol'George

Do a search on this site, I and others posted some years past, the sizes of the spacers,----- but thinking you mentioned you have them?
As far as wiring harnesses:
You want the one that does not have a power wire to a coil as the magnums have a magneto on the engine head,-- no separate ignition coil.
And the ignition switch will have an "M" terminal. for the magnum.
That is connected to a small brass piece that is crimped on the switch zinc housing.
When the switch is turned to "stop/off" it grounds the magneto using the "M" terminal to stop it.
The wire that exits the harness near the voltage regulator 3 prong plug will have a white wire going to the magneto kill wire.
That white wire comes out of the grommet on the fan housing between the spark plug wires.
hope this helps
follow the wiring diagram while ringing out the wires to assure the correct wires go to the correct terminals/connectors
Are you having fun yet?

It's late right now but I'll have to take a look at the key switch and the harnesses.
I'm just assuming the one that has a solenoid attached still and red overspray was the original 982 onan one.
It came with a 1872 battery tray with a solenoid attached.
I have the original battery tray but someone torched it in half for some reason.

[mickb72]

Hello. The driveshaft does not run level with the frame. Once you have the motor set you will see a straight line from the motor to the transaxle runs down hill, not level with the frame. Mike