1810 electrical problems

[Grand Pops 1810]

Boy, this 1810 is working me hard. Got the rear main seal replaced Friday evening. Mowed Saturday and broke the deck belt. Pulleys looked/felt okay so it got grease and a new belt & blades sharpened. Finished mowing today. Went out to restart and no power. Checked PTO to make sure it was off, then saw smoke coming out from under the dash tower (through the slot for the hydro lever). No power, pulled the big fuse next to the ignition switch and found it blown. Is this a special Cub fuse, or do I just go to the auto parts store? It's a very beefy fuse, says 20A, 32V. Not sure if this is what belongs in there.

I guess it could be anything, but is there anything here known for trouble that I should check first? Ignition switch? I felt the plug on the back immediately after it happened and it didn't really feel hot.

Thanks guys!!

[J-Mech]

It's just a glass barrel fuse. Yep, 20A is correct. (32V is fine too, most all the glass fuses are.) Check the ignition switch for corrosion. The fuse holder is also a corrosion point. You can get the fuse holder at most auto part stores. If they don't stock it, they can get it.

[Grand Pops 1810]

okay, thanks Jonathan! Time for me to go shopping & start cleaning connections.

[Grand Pops 1810]

Slight progress today, but still a fail overall. Pulled the ignition switch and it was very dirty and corroded. Looked like a likely suspect. Replaced it with new, and a new 20a fuse & tried again. Now the oil light on the dash comes on, and the fuse is holding, but the starter still will not engage. Once in a while you can hear a click down by the starter when you turn the key, but not every time. I then turned the ignition key to on, set the parking brake and lifted the seat. I pushed down the seat button and shorted the solonoid terminals. I just knew it would start! It didn't. But the starter did spin over normally, but the engine would not fire. I haven't reviewed the schematic yet. I guess time to start checking starter connections (pull the engine??) Or pull out the test light and see how far down the harness I can get & still have power?

[J-Mech]

Where did you get the key switch?

[Grand Pops 1810]

I got it from Tractor Supply Co. It is a MTD switch with 5 prongs, appears to be an exact replacement.

[Sam Mac]

Originally Posted by Grand Pops 1810

I got it from Tractor Supply Co. It is a MTD switch with 5 prongs, appears to be an exact replacement.

Just because it looks the same on the out side doesn't mean the circuits are the same on the inside. This is the proper switch for your tractor according to parts tree. Cub Cadet 925-3026

This was a recent wrong switch issue. http://www.onlycubcadets.net/forum/s...t=38570&page=2

[FrankF3]

Originally Posted by Sam Mac

Just because it looks the same on the out side doesn't mean the circuits are the same on the inside. This is the proper switch for your tractor according to parts tree. Cub Cadet 925-3026

This was a recent wrong switch issue. http://www.onlycubcadets.net/forum/s...t=38570&page=2

I had a similar problem with an 1862 that came to me because it would not turn over. The PO replaced the solenoid with one that looked the same. However, the solenoid they put in needed a ground to be applied to the coil terminal and the other end of the coil was tied to positive. End result? No start and still needed the proper solenoid with the internal end of the coil tied to ground so +12 would energize it.

[Grand Pops 1810]

Okay, thanks for the heads up on the switch! I'll have to pull my packaging out of the trash and see if the MTD part number crosses to the Cub p/n. Maybe I'll be ordering another switch very soon. The alert to the similar appearing solenoids is good also to look out for!

[Grand Pops 1810]

Jonathan may have hit the nail on the head. The switch I picked up is p/n 925-0267, which I have just researched to be for "182 282 382 482 1100 OTHERS" at least from the page I looked at. Now to order or find local the right switch...