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#1
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Looking for help with wheel bearings and steering
My birthday is coming up soon and no one ever knows what to get me. This year I've decided I'm going to ask for front wheel bearings and parts to rebuild the steering on my 147. I realize that there have been multiple posts on it and I can spend time searching those/part lists; what I'm simply asking for is what did you buy, how well did it work, what should I be looking out for, etc? If you think I'm just being lazy and don't want to respond, then don't. I don't have time to do ALL the research (but don't mind doing some) if someone can throw some manufacturer names on what works well (both for wheel bearings and steering upgrades) and what to avoid, plus what I should be buying to make the steering last even longer, or a post where someone already detailed this all out, I'd appreciate it.
Thanks
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Daniel G. . (May 1970) 147 w/an IH spring assist, 48" deck, 42" blade, 1969 73, #2 trailer, 10" Brinly plow and (on loan) Dad's #2 tiller. |
#2
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One tip is to check the axle to frame connection, if you can make the axle move when you turn the steering wheel before the wheels move, you can start there.
Does it do that?
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Up to 530 and counting... I give up updating my profile! |
#3
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A tad, yes.
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Daniel G. . (May 1970) 147 w/an IH spring assist, 48" deck, 42" blade, 1969 73, #2 trailer, 10" Brinly plow and (on loan) Dad's #2 tiller. |
#4
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You can remove the axle and squeeze the channel together with a nut and bolt so it is back in spec.
The only issue is the motor would have to be raised up, or removed as there is not much room with the oil pan in the way to get the nut on. Or you can get some shims to put between the axle and the channel. BTDT
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Up to 530 and counting... I give up updating my profile! |
#5
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I replace the tie rods with grease-able heim joints. I get them from McMaster Carr. You have to thread the rods just a bit more, and cut off some threads so you can get the steering centered, and the toe set. But, they are heavier duty, last longer and grease-able. Not sure it makes it steer easier, but it has to be a little better than a worn out tie rod with a rusty joint. No, I don't have the part number....I'm not going to be that helpful.
Probably a lot of slop in your steering box isn't there? |
#6
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You can add the ball bearing upgrade to the steering box, but I'm not really sure it helps--I've done 3 or 4.
The Cam follower in the steering box--that's a burr under my saddle the way I see a lot of guys "think" they can repair it. You can't take a grade 8 bolt and grind it down adequately on a pedestal grinder and call it a "repair" unless you are fixing a trailer queen that will never drive very much from now until the end of time. Those cam followers are extremely hard. I have taken ones that are only slightly worn to work and set them up on a surface grinder. Real bad ones I've replaced. Pretty sure they are only case hardened, so you don't want to remove too much.
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2072 w/60" Haban 982 with 3 pt and 60" Haban 1811 with ags and 50C 124 w/hydraulic lift 782 w/mounted sprayer 2284 w/54" mowing deck |
#7
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Quote:
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Daniel G. . (May 1970) 147 w/an IH spring assist, 48" deck, 42" blade, 1969 73, #2 trailer, 10" Brinly plow and (on loan) Dad's #2 tiller. |
#8
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I think anything over 1/4 is pretty bad. My 1811 is due.... I need to completely go through it. It has at least 1/2, maybe more. It's actually amazing I can drive it as straight as I can, lol. But I was using it to rotary hoe the garden this summer and I had a lot of trouble keeping it away from the row. This winter I hope to go through it. It's due for some heavy maintenance/ rebuilds.
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#9
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Cam follower, the steering gear bearing upgrade, I put a bearing at the top of the column (where the bushing is), all new tie rod ends, clamp the axle channel as mentioned prior. I made new spindle bolts (mine wore down because it wasn't maintained) and installed new wheel bearings as well on my 86. It steers quite well now.
You'll need a new seal for the gear, that the follower plate rides against, and I think it was recently discontinued. On my 86 I just used the old seal plate and cut and glued some shipping foam to it to replace the old stuff. When you get yours apart you'll see what I mean, or if your dealer is good he may still have one on the shelf.
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RUN IN THE RED 782 w/50c deck (red); 782 dual stick, 44c deck (y/w); 1050 w/38c deck; 1864 w/54" GT deck; 1872 project Cub Cadet Pro Z 560 L 42" power angle snowblade, #2 tiller, 2-QA42a snowthrowers, 450 thrower, #2 cart; 54" Haban blade; Brinly box blade, 48" dethatcher, moldboard plow; Agri-Fab sweeper 1200, 1863, 1864 parts machines |
#10
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I'm pretty sure you need the 3/4" bearings.
Here you go. I'm pretty sure these will last you many years. It amazes me how cheap things are getting now. As the others have said, I would also replace the rod ends from McMaster-Carr. https://www.ebay.com/itm/4-PACK-FLAN...wAAOSw5CNbdoxv
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This ain't no hobby....it's an addiction |
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