What is the proper break-in procedure for a K-301?

MrGitrdone41 · #1 02-24-2012, 09:57 PM

Hi guys I want to break-in a K-301 the right way. If you guys can help me out.
Thanks.

Vince_o · #2 02-25-2012, 07:49 AM

Well The best way Ive found that Merk told me years ago is to work it against the governor. If you got some land to plow or grass to cut, that would do it. Run it a couple of hours and change the oil then go on the regular schedule. I use oil plugs from David Kirk that have a magnet in them in all my engines, you would be surprised how much metal come off the cylinders when the rings are seating.

MrGitrdone41 · #3 02-25-2012, 11:04 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Vince_o

Well The best way Ive found that Merk told me years ago is to work it against the governor. If you got some land to plow or grass to cut, that would do it. Run it a couple of hours and change the oil then go on the regular schedule. I use oil plugs from David Kirk that have a magnet in them in all my engines, you would be surprised how much metal come off the cylinders when the rings are seating.

Ok Thanks Vince_o! I saw a thread that Merk made about how to break-in a Kohler but i can't find it!

Vince_o · #4 02-25-2012, 01:46 PM

Well I dont know if there is a post on this site, the site it was on is gone now, And we were talking in a chat room mosty years ago and on the phone about it over time a bunch of us.

Merk · #5 02-25-2012, 02:05 PM

My break in procedure:
First 30 minutes- vary the RPMs from idle to wide open. The tractor doesn't move.

Next 1 to 2 hours-I change the oil and take the tractor for a drive around my yard. I vary the RPMs during the drive. The oil is change again.

I like to find someting to put a load on the motor......moldboard plow, sled, tree, or my drag (driveway needs regraded). During this stage I let the motor warm up to operating temp and them drive it like stole it( if it blows up you didn't build it right) Oil is change again after 5 hours running time.

Main reason I chane oil so many times is make sure all dirt/machind fines are flush out of the inside of the motor. I use Kohler oil in my motors.

MrGitrdone41 · #6 02-25-2012, 05:39 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Merk

My break in procedure:
First 30 minutes- vary the RPMs from idle to wide open. The tractor doesn't move.

Next 1 to 2 hours-I change the oil and take the tractor for a drive around my yard. I vary the RPMs during the drive. The oil is change again.

I like to find someting to put a load on the motor......moldboard plow, sled, tree, or my drag (driveway needs regraded). During this stage I let the motor warm up to operating temp and them drive it like stole it( if it blows up you didn't build it right) Oil is change again after 5 hours running time.

Main reason I chane oil so many times is make sure all dirt/machind fines are flush out of the inside of the motor. I use Kohler oil in my motors.

Ok. Thanks for your help Merk!

Jeff in Pa · #7 02-25-2012, 08:01 PM

Merk wrote the same way way I do it ( and was told to do it ). The only thing I do differently is retorque the head after the first running ( 30 minutes ), then again after a hour of run time, then once again after 5 hours run time and finally at 15 hours run time. Make sure you follow the correct pattern too. I use Rotella 30W oil since I can get that at the Auto Zone a few miles from my house.

Merk · #8 02-25-2012, 08:16 PM

Quote:

by Jeff in Pa
Merk wrote the same way way I do it ( and was told to do it ). The only thing I do differently is retorque the head after the first running ( 30 minutes ), then again after a hour of run time, then once again after 5 hours run time and finally at 15 hours run time. Make sure you follow the correct pattern too. I use Rotella 30W oil since I can get that at the Auto Zone a few miles from my house.

I will retorque head bolt(s)/nut(s) after 25 hours. I used to use Valoline oil in my Kohler motor. Almost all motor oils made today don't have the right additive package for tappet style motors. The Kohler oil does.

Thanks for the reminder Jeff.

litlmikeyl · #9 02-26-2012, 01:01 AM

Our only option in the near future may be the Kohler oil if you don't wish to use an aftermarket additive. Anything made for motor vehicle use, including diesels, is going to lose if it hasn't all ready the additives that are needed for our motors with the flat-tappet design.

My Dad has been using ZDDP Plus with a specific Castrol oil, 20-50W I think, in his older cars (MG's) for quite some time now with very good results. IIRC his motors are the same flat-tappet design as our Kohlers.

Vince_o · #10 02-26-2012, 05:31 AM

I think the biggest factor in the oil is that what you buy in the auto parts store is made for water cooled engs. Where the briggs, kohler, Kaw, ect oils are derived from the same crude, itsd the additives that make it differant. And you have to remember our little air cooled engs are running hotter than the water cooled engs. If you look at the cost per qt at least in our shop, were cheaper that the auto stores.