Homemade weights?

[specthompson]

Im going to plow snow with my 109 in the winter and im not looking to spend a million bucks on wheel weights or a weight box. What would be the best setup for weights i could make? I want to use the stock holes in the frame used for a rear lift/pto. I was thinking i could weld up a weight box and have it rest on the hitch plate on the diff while using the holes for the rear lift/pto. Im just not sure i like the idea of a hundred plus pounds of weight being directly on the axle. If anybody has any ideas or anything that would be great.

[Shrewcub]

I would load the rear tires with fluid.

[mjsoldcub]

Heres what i did with some chunks of solid steel i found at a boneyard....had to make the bracket but fit right in the "lift" holes....

[Sam Mac]

Originally Posted by Shrewcub

I would load the rear tires with fluid.

Yep, best bang for the buck.

[OffTime]

My brother just got done making wheel weights to go in the wheels of his Wheel Horse. However, they weigh about 90 - 92 lbs each and cost a total of $200 just for the bare steel.
I've thought of making a kind of a bucket/mold that would bolt into the wheel into the four bolt holes provided. Then I would go to the local tire shop and ask for two buckets of old, used tire balancing weights. Dump the weights into something that would handle the heat and melt the weights down. Since lead is heavier than steel, the steel clips in the weights should float to the top. I should be able to dip out the clips from the top. Then I would pour the molten lead into the mold and let it cool. Then just leave the steel mold around the lead as a way to hold them into the wheel, and presto, you have lead wheel weights.
BTW, I haven't yet tried it, so I'm not sure how it would work, but I can't imagine that it would cost much.

[Shaner]

Originally Posted by OffTime

My brother just got done making wheel weights to go in the wheels of his Wheel Horse. However, they weigh about 90 - 92 lbs each and cost a total of $200 just for the bare steel.
I've thought of making a kind of a bucket/mold that would bolt into the wheel into the four bolt holes provided. Then I would go to the local tire shop and ask for two buckets of old, used tire balancing weights. Dump the weights into something that would handle the heat and melt the weights down. Since lead is heavier than steel, the steel clips in the weights should float to the top. I should be able to dip out the clips from the top. Then I would pour the molten lead into the mold and let it cool. Then just leave the steel mold around the lead as a way to hold them into the wheel, and presto, you have lead wheel weights.
BTW, I haven't yet tried it, so I'm not sure how it would work, but I can't imagine that it would cost much.

This could work...but if you do MAKE ABSOLUTE SURE you take every possible precaution! Lead will screw you up bad! For me wheel weights aren't worth the risk. I'd be finding an alternative

[DoubleO7]

Melting lead is no big health hazard.
As long as you stand up wind.
And you do not over heat the lead beyond the melting point i.e. you start seeing any shade of pink/red your too hot.
You will want to borrow a plumbers melting pot if you can find one.
The cost of gas to melt 100 lbs worth of lead might be a kicker.

If you have any diecasting plants casting zinc (Zamac, pot metal) you might consider using that instead of lead. You might even get them to pour some into your mold. But your weight will be about 40% less.

[Sam Mac]

Just my 2 cents but if I was going to use lead I'd just mix some mortar and blend in the lead weights in place of stone. I'd also add a little extra cement to the mix. Take your rim, set it on the ground valve stem side up, cut a round piece of plywood that will fit down into the center of the wheel. Drill 4 holes for 1/2" all thread. Set 4 pieces of the all thread in the plywood with a nut on each side to hold them in place with about 1" sticking through the holes on the back side of the wheel. Grease up the inside of the wheel and pout the mix in. Let it set for a couple days and then turn it over, remove the wheel. Pull the nuts off the back side of the plywood, remove the plywood and you have a concrete/ lead weight. I still like filled tires better.

[kostendorf]

Originally Posted by Sam Mac

Just my 2 cents but if I was going to use lead I'd just mix some mortar and blend in the lead weights in place of stone. I'd also add a little extra cement to the mix. Take your rim, set it on the ground valve stem side up, cut a round piece of plywood that will fit down into the center of the wheel. Drill 4 holes for 1/2" all thread. Set 4 pieces of the all thread in the plywood with a nut on each side to hold them in place with about 1" sticking through the holes on the back side of the wheel. Grease up the inside of the wheel and pout the mix in. Let it set for a couple days and then turn it over, remove the wheel. Pull the nuts off the back side of the plywood, remove the plywood and you have a concrete/ lead weight. I still like filled tires better.

This is what I did with lead and some scrap steel. I used conduit pipe so I could use stove bolts. I like the idea of just using the wheel for a pattern instead of a roll of flashing as I used. these weigh 35# apiece. Loaded tires and these weights worked good for all my projects.

DCP_0359.jpg

[specthompson]

Hmmmm... decisions decisions