1882/2082 engine extrange

CMJAnew · #1 06-08-2009, 09:28 AM

Are the engines from the 1882 and the 2082 interchangeable? Specifically the 20hp into the 1882 tractor.
I'm asking as my 1882 has developed a serious oil leak. Not burning - just leaking. I haven't been able to determine yet, where the leak is coming from. Just happened to notice it on the driveway under the front - approximately between the tires. As time permits I will start removing guards and panels to get an approximation of where the problem is.
Thanks

#2 06-08-2009, 09:54 AM

Yeah it's the same motor so swap is a breeze. You're not looking at the one offered in MI are you? Way too much money for a used motor. Seals are cheap and easy. I need a 18M for a build I'm working one so send yours my way.

Oil travels BTW and where it drips from is not necissarily where it leaks from.

Scott

CMJAnew · #3 06-09-2009, 08:55 AM

Thanks Scott for the answers and input.

aagitch · #4 06-09-2009, 10:06 AM

yeah take your time pin pointing that leak as it could be a very simple fix. I'm with murphy, if it's a good running engine, i'd just repair that one even if its a seal

#5 06-09-2009, 10:14 AM

My PTO side seal on my Onan went last Friday, I was on an incline grading a driveway and the oil flowed back into the flyweel fan and blew everywhere including the air cleaner and began to smoke. Thought I blew the motor. I ordered the bearing plate gasket and new seal yesterday and they cost me $33 shipped, Onan parts are 2-3 times the cost of Kohler. I'd like to have that 20 Magnum myself but not at $400+ and not at a 3rd party word that's it's a good motor.

Scott

CMJAnew · #6 06-11-2009, 07:00 AM

At least a couple of bidders thought the eBay engine was a deal at over $600.00

#7 06-11-2009, 07:20 AM

Yeah, there is a limited supply of product out there and guys are humgry for it.

Scott

aagitch · #8 06-12-2009, 09:37 PM

Gosh i think i'd rather bite the bullet and buy a newly rebuilt engine with some kind of warranty or have mine professionally rebuilt rather than pay 600.00 for something that could be junk.

CMJAnew · #9 06-14-2009, 10:30 AM

After removing the heat shields and guards, it "appears" my oil leak is coming from behind the pto.
I may try to mow a little bit with it to confirm, but I'm pretty confident of its location.
So, any helpful do's and/or don'ts before I tear in any further?
If responding, please remember I'm mechanically challenged and need to be talked to as such.
Thanks for the help

Matt G. · #10 06-14-2009, 11:29 AM

That's the easiest seal to replace on the engine. Time to get a service manual for the tractor if you don't already have one. Start by disconnecting the battery and removing the heat shield from around the muffler. It'll probably help a lot to remove the nose, hood, and side panels as well. Disconnect the PTO clutch wire, and get out your impact wrench and remove the bolt in the center of the pulley of the PTO clutch. Remove the washer and spacer and put them aside. Take off the 3 adjustment nuts for the clutch, at which point you can slide off the ring that was under the 3 nuts, the pulley, and whatever other parts slide off at this point (been awhile since I've had one off, I can't remember exactly how many pieces there are). Now, you can remove the 4? bolts holding the coil on. I would also remove the muffler to let you see what's going on. It's usually easiest to spray some PB blaster on the 4 nuts that hold the manifolds on and remove the manifolds and muffler as an assembly. Be careful taking those off so you don't twist a stud off. It's ok if the stud turns instead of the nut, as long as it's turning and not twisting off. Clean up the front of the engine and all of the parts you removed.

Now to remove the seal, they make seal pullers, but I usually use an assortment of screwdrivers and those little things that you pry up small nails with (don't know what they're called). You can also take an old flat screwdriver and grind the end into a hook. Pry out the old seal and clean the hole in the engine and the area on the crankshaft where the seal rides. Also, this would be a good time to clean any rust off the end of the crankshaft with some emery paper to make the clutch go back on easier. To install the new seal, you should lubricate the surface that rides on the crank with some grease, oil, petroleum jelly, etc. They even make oil seal lube. When installing the new seal, make sure not to cock it in the hole...slowly drive it in with a block of wood and a small hammer, alternating hits around in a circle around the edge of the seal...basically, don't keep hitting the same side to drive it in. When the seal is flush with the engine block, the seal is in as far as it goes. Reassembly is the reverse of disassembly; however, I'd put a small amount of anti-seize compound on the crankshaft before you put the clutch on so that it can't rust to the crank and give you trouble in the future. I would also put it on all bolts that you removed, especially the exhaust manifold studs/nuts. Torque everything to the spec in the manual. The manual also tells you how to set the air gap on the PTO clutch, which you'll need to do after you've removed it.