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  #1  
Old 05-29-2021, 05:31 PM
IHCC1250 IHCC1250 is offline
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Location: MD
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Default Kohler k301 govenor/throttle issues

I recently have finished up the paint job on the 1250. However I’ve noticed the fuel petcock always leaked a little bit. Enough that in a week, the tank would be empty. So I removed the tank, and popped out the petcock. I will purchase a screw type one soon.

But for now, I’ve encountered another issue. When I started it it ran very very fast at idle. More than 3-4 open. I’ve taken a video of what I mean. When I throttle it up, the govenor arm does not move. Just barely. What needs done to fix this issue? And how much should the governor thing that screws in the rod and attaches to the carb throttle be screwed in? What needs done to fix this? It seems that the governor is springing the throttle nearly WOD even set at lowest speed on the throttle lever. Anyone who helps would be appreciated greatly. Thank you.

https://youtu.be/RgugRJF6byEhttp://https://youtu.be/RgugRJF6byE
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  #2  
Old 05-29-2021, 06:46 PM
finsruskw finsruskw is offline
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Location: Iowa
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WTH?!
Two holes in the tank??
Should be only the one where the shut off is.
A new bung and shut off is probably what you need.
The QL plastic tanks used the rubber bung and the valve just pushes into the bung.
Best look for a new tank w/the right setup.

Go through the governor set up instructions in the FSM to get the carb linkage right.
To position the arm loosen the bolt holding the arm.
.With a pliers or small vise grip, turn the governor shaft CCW until it hits its stop.

NOTE: at this point, IF the shaft keeps turning and will not hit a stop, it is damaged and will have to be replaced because the internal stop is broken from the shaft.

Then with the carb at WOT and holding the shaft against the stop with the pliers, move the lever to the left and tighten the bolt.
The carb should now be at WOT and the governor will be in the correct position.
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  #3  
Old 05-29-2021, 07:49 PM
twoton twoton is offline
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Do not change the adjustment on the 'drag link' between the governor arm and the throttle. Re set the governor like this;

https://www.onlycubcadets.net/forum/...234#post338234

Beware of what fins said about the governor shaft indicating that your governor is done busted.
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  #4  
Old 05-29-2021, 07:49 PM
IHCC1250 IHCC1250 is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by finsruskw View Post
WTH?!
Two holes in the tank??
Should be only the one where the shut off is.
A new bung and shut off is probably what you need.
The QL plastic tanks used the rubber bung and the valve just pushes into the bung.
Best look for a new tank w/the right setup.

Go through the governor set up instructions in the FSM to get the carb linkage right.
To position the arm loosen the bolt holding the arm.
.With a pliers or small vise grip, turn the governor shaft CCW until it hits its stop.

NOTE: at this point, IF the shaft keeps turning and will not hit a stop, it is damaged and will have to be replaced because the internal stop is broken from the shaft.

Then with the carb at WOT and holding the shaft against the stop with the pliers, move the lever to the left and tighten the bolt.
The carb should now be at WOT and the governor will be in the correct position.
Thank you for your advice. However there is NO 2 holes. It was simply leaking from the worn out 1/4 turn petcock. I’ve ordered a new one. I find it very odd that all I did was take the tank off and it’s now stuck at WOT. I will perform the adjustment. But first I need to check my throttle lever. Possibly it’s hitting something since it stops at wot at half throttle on the lever. It was running just fine, then I take the tank off, and I may have messed something up. I will look into it later this Tuesday. Let me know if anything else is needed. Thank you.
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  #5  
Old 05-29-2021, 07:50 PM
IHCC1250 IHCC1250 is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by twoton View Post
Do not change the adjustment on the 'drag link' between the governor arm and the throttle. Re set the governor like this;

https://www.onlycubcadets.net/forum/...234#post338234

Beware of what fins said about the governor shaft indicating that your governor is done busted.

What should I do if it is busted?

Full rebuild?
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  #6  
Old 05-29-2021, 08:10 PM
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Cubcadet_107 Cubcadet_107 is offline
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1250 has a different linkage setup than the narrow frames, but my 106 and 107 both actuate the throttle a lot more than that, even when shut off. Something definitely isn't right, I would follow the adjustment procedures posted above first.

If the governor itself is busted, unfortunately yes, you need to do a total rebuild, as the governor is the last piece removed and first piece installed when rebuilding.
__________________

'70 107 with k301 engine swap
'71 106 with 38" deck
'70 147R with factory replacement k321, 42" deck
'61 Original with 38" timed deck
'63 70 "pinkie"
1863 with 54" deck
'46 Farmall H, '50 Farmall Cub

105 x2 (parts)
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  #7  
Old 05-29-2021, 08:28 PM
IHCC1250 IHCC1250 is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Cubcadet_107 View Post
1250 has a different linkage setup than the narrow frames, but my 106 and 107 both actuate the throttle a lot more than that, even when shut off. Something definitely isn't right, I would follow the adjustment procedures posted above first.

If the governor itself is busted, unfortunately yes, you need to do a total rebuild, as the governor is the last piece removed and first piece installed when rebuilding.
That just doesn’t make sense! All I did was simply remove the fuel tank! I haven’t touched anything with the governor! Or the carb for that matter. It was running just fine a bit ago!
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  #8  
Old 05-29-2021, 08:47 PM
IHCC1250 IHCC1250 is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Cubcadet_107 View Post
1250 has a different linkage setup than the narrow frames, but my 106 and 107 both actuate the throttle a lot more than that, even when shut off. Something definitely isn't right, I would follow the adjustment procedures posted above first.

If the governor itself is busted, unfortunately yes, you need to do a total rebuild, as the governor is the last piece removed and first piece installed when rebuilding.
Do you by chance have a photo of where this lever should be ad the idle position? Mine seems to be further behind than this one I’ve seen. Maybe it’s my throttle lever stopping on the dash.
Attached Images
File Type: jpg DF1C605F-805D-4857-8B12-D9773ED7B9C3.jpg (26.7 KB, 93 views)
File Type: jpg 824A5036-EDA2-4089-BFBF-C95D5BD3B7D4.jpg (22.5 KB, 91 views)
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  #9  
Old 05-29-2021, 08:54 PM
IHCC1250 IHCC1250 is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Cubcadet_107 View Post
1250 has a different linkage setup than the narrow frames, but my 106 and 107 both actuate the throttle a lot more than that, even when shut off. Something definitely isn't right, I would follow the adjustment procedures posted above first.

If the governor itself is busted, unfortunately yes, you need to do a total rebuild, as the governor is the last piece removed and first piece installed when rebuilding.
If this doesn’t look right. It must be the throttle lever. This is lowest idle, no choke. I noticed the other one looked a lot more close to the choke lever than mine does.
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  #10  
Old 05-29-2021, 10:39 PM
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Cubcadet_107 Cubcadet_107 is offline
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I don't own a Quietline, so my governor linkages differ from yours. Unfortunately I don't know exactly what it should look like.

However, from your photos, it appears that the throttle shaft is already resting on the idle speed adjustment screw. If I'm being honest, that screw looks like its in a bit far, holding the throttle open more than it should. Maybe that's the issue?

Unfortunately I don't have any example pictures currently.
__________________

'70 107 with k301 engine swap
'71 106 with 38" deck
'70 147R with factory replacement k321, 42" deck
'61 Original with 38" timed deck
'63 70 "pinkie"
1863 with 54" deck
'46 Farmall H, '50 Farmall Cub

105 x2 (parts)
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