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#1
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Loader Build For The 149
I can't run the tractor right now because I'm still waiting on some drive shaft parts, and I'm catching up to some of the other repairs. Sooo, might as well start building the FEL.
The planning has be churning around in my head for a few months and the details are starting to emerge to the point that I can start cutting metal with conviction. I've started with the under frame member and the two mast posts. Both the 4X4" under tube and the two 2X4"mast tubes will be reservoir, giving me about four gallons plus what's in the system. The tubes will incorporate baffles to control flow for cooling and aeration. Next is building the tube to tractor frame brackets. |
#2
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'70 107 with k301 engine swap '71 106 with 38" deck '70 147R with factory replacement k321, 42" deck '61 Original with 38" timed deck '63 70 "pinkie" 1863 with 54" deck '46 Farmall H, '50 Farmall Cub 105 x2 (parts) |
#3
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Looks like a good start.
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[B]Roland Bedell[/B] CC Models: 100, 105, 1450, 782, (2) 784, & 2072 [SIZE="4"][B][COLOR="Red"]Buy:[/COLOR][COLOR="Blue"] Made in the USA[/COLOR][/B] [/SIZE]:American Flag 1: |
#4
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What GPM pump will you be running?
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127 - 48'' deck + tiller. 1512- 46" GT deck & bagger 1872- 60" Haban 1772 turbo diesel- Iron rear + KW loader + backhoe + 3 point. Case 580CK Ford 850 International TD-8E |
#5
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The pump is a .366 cubic inch per rev. Direct drive off the front of the engine.
I'm also going to be looking at your quick attach system. |
#6
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I believe im using the same size pump. Just running off the rear.
Quick attachments are the way to go. Bucket and forks are a must in my opinion. I like my cub to be more of a multi tool vs a just a knife.
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127 - 48'' deck + tiller. 1512- 46" GT deck & bagger 1872- 60" Haban 1772 turbo diesel- Iron rear + KW loader + backhoe + 3 point. Case 580CK Ford 850 International TD-8E |
#7
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It's lunch time in the far NW of NA, so a quick update on the progress.
I'm a scrounger and a saver, so I end up with lots of bits of this and parts of that, plus metal of many shapes and sizes. And I like to use it as long as it's appropriate for the job and doesn't look or perform like scrap when done. With that in mind, off to the treasure pile I went and returned with a 3X3X1/4" angle and a 1 1/2X3X1/8" tube. The tube I zip cut through two opposite corners to give me a couple of 1 1/2X3" angles with rounded corner profile. Those will fit inside the frame flange to "sandwich" the frame. Its' great time to use up some of those "should be thrown out" zip discs. The angle got cut length wise to leave 1 5/8" on one web, same width as the tractor frame flange. (ok a smidge more) Then cut into four pieces of an appropriate length. This will all be the underframe. |
#8
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The angle will get welded to the tube and bolted to the frame flange. I'll predrill as many holes as possible before its too cumbersome to put under the drill press. I'm hoping to have the dry fit done, tacked together and flange holes all drilled this afternoon. Then I have to go looking for some plate to go from the angle to the tractor frame. I want that part bolted together to simplify removal if need be. It's more work now, but likely far less problematic in the long run. It's always tempting to just grab the welder and make some "instant" bolts.
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#9
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Good to see your progress!
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#10
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I feel like I made some progress since the noon report yesterday.
I cut and fit the side plates and drilled a LOT of holes. Probably over fifty bolts and each through two layers. The whole frame will be held on by grade eight equivalent 8 millimeter bolts (basically 5/16"). I want to spread the holding force over a large frame area and I happen to have a box of one hundred bolts a buddy gave me. The baffle to direct tank flow is shown sitting on the tank and in the tank. The hole on the frontside is the suction. The oil will be returned to the right side mast tube. It will come down the 2X4" tube and open into a 4X4" area which will allow deceleration and any air bubbles to start floating up. Then it flows along the backside of the tube, around the end where any bubbles can now float to the top of the left mast tube, where there is a vent. Then back along the front of the tube to the suction. The return bung got a deflector to help the oil get its downward flow, rather than smashing right into the opposite side, creating turbulence. The clean out and drain bungs also got welded in. |
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