122 driveshaft

jbrewer · #1 09-18-2023, 04:32 PM

What model driveshafts are common to the 122? Just the manual transmission narrow frames?

Thanks!

(edit: My original question was is 122 and 123 driveshafts the same... I'm adding this in here so that Fin's answer makes sense!)

finsruskw · #2 09-18-2023, 04:43 PM

Nope.
2 different animals!
2 different driveshafts as well
122 is a gear drive whereas the 123 is a hydro, the very 1st Cub to sport a hydro as well
No rag joint on the 122

jbrewer · #3 09-18-2023, 04:51 PM

Thanks Fins.

It was a dumb question but I've never been into a narrow frame manual trans before. I'm about to though!

jbrewer · #4 09-18-2023, 06:34 PM

Might as well make a thread about this. I'm swapping motors around and redoing the clutch in one of my numerous scruffy cubs. I'll be moving a really nice running 301 into it, and might as well redo the clutch while I have the engine out.

Of course, it's not going to give in easy. Here's one of the grill housing bolt/nuts. It's seen a bit of rust in the past, oh...50 yrs.

jbrewer · #5 09-20-2023, 10:18 AM

Some more work:

Engine is out. As seems common , there's some cracks under the engine mount on the frame.

Will replace driveshaft, pressure plate, TO bearing, teaser spring when I do the engine swap.

The hoist was a good call. Makes power washing underneath pretty easy.

Work continues....

darkminion_17 · #6 09-20-2023, 04:45 PM

I see an Oops pedal!

jbrewer · #7 09-20-2023, 06:10 PM

You do indeed!

So far, no inadvertent wheelies.... :-)

jbrewer · #8 09-21-2023, 09:09 PM

I should have known nothing on this tractor would go easy. I'm not sure if the flat head stove bolt was an International idea, but as soon as I saw there was no standard bolt head, I knew this would be trouble.

It was.

It was , since the square shank had rusted away. Out comes Dr John and my surgical angle grinder.

More careful surgery:

...and I can pop the bolt out.

1 hour later........................

Back to it....waiting on parts.

finsruskw · #9 09-21-2023, 09:25 PM

There is a reason that type of bolt, slotted carriage, is used there bud.
You will find out once you drive/steer it across a bunch of uneven ground if you don't put one like it back in there.
.
.Hint.....it has to do with the drag link.

jbrewer · #10 09-22-2023, 09:22 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by finsruskw

There is a reason that type of bolt, slotted carriage, is used there bud.
You will find out once you drive/steer it across a bunch of uneven ground if you don't put one like it back in there.
.
.Hint.....it has to do with the drag link.

So it's an "oops" bolt chosen by engineering! I wonder if IH manufactured that bolt or sourced it externally (with that slotted head, there's no opportunity to mark it with the normal IH nomenclature. ) Gotta wonder if they had that specially made. Not going to find that bolt in the bins at ACE. :-) I'll jack up the front and see what the interference looks like with the axle in various configurations. At least the carriage bolt rusted its flats off before the frame did.

There's another "oops" bit of engineering on the other side of the frame where the nut is welded as it's impossible to get to the nut with the engine in place.

Having worked in design engineering my whole career (electronic, not mechanical, but the rules/conventions are the same) I can hear the discussions between engineering and purchasing at the time ... (you want me to source WHAT kind of bolt??? Are you kidding me?)

Got the cracks in the frame welded up and ground flat. Those two rear bolt holes seem to often crack from the accumulated 50 yrs of torque and vibration. I built some oversize "washers" out of 3/16" steel strap to fit under the frame to spread the load over a 2" area of the frame rather than the existing half inch area that the bolt head provided. I got some replacement bolts that are 3/16" in longer to compensate.

Next up: Clutch rebuild. Pull engine from 123 and install in 122. Install other engine back in 123.