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#1
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K301 Crankshaft Bearings
Well I guess Murphy has bit me again.
Having the block bored and the crank polished on my K301 project They were all done with the block and just needed to polish the crank It was actually in really great shape till, they got a little carried away and polished till it was .002 out of specs. Trying to figure something out. They are working on a solution but figured I better ask the group. Is there such a thing as undersize main bearings for these engines? Some other solution perhaps? To think I was in a really swell mood this morning with the sun shinning and everything. Just to be clear we are talking the 2 Ball bearings not the rod. Thanks. Ken |
#2
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No such thing, I guess you may get away with it though, but the pto end seal may leak.
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Up to 530 and counting... I give up updating my profile! |
#3
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I'm not sure of the facilities they have available, but a chrome shop can "flash chrome" a band where the bearing sits and then precision grind to size. My shop did that regularly for bearing and seal areas on expensive or obsolete shafts. There are other options, but usually it come down to being cost effective. You can also use green Loctite Cylindrical Bonding, but that means its only coming again with heat.
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#4
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How did you "polish off " .002?
That is a lot of material if all you did was "polish" the bearing journal with a piece of fine emery in your hand, or a scotch brite pad. Now if you chucked it in the lathe, it would a bit easier to knock off a tho' either side. is the bearing an "easy fit" on the journal, or is it sloppy? if it is an easy fit, I'd go with it using Loctite cylindrical bond, at this point you have nothing to loose. Either it is going to be ok, or you are going to need a good used crank. Are the bearings used? if so, try new ones. Also are you measuring the crank and bearings both at the same temps? just asking because ewe is in MT. and it gets kkkkkkold there and if the crank is cold and da berrins is warm, ya gonna see more slop that ya actually got. And shaft chroming, or spray welding is going to be cost prohibitive. |
#5
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Thanks for the input der. I will wait to see what grand solution the guys
who goofed it up come up with. Sure took the fun out of this project in a hurry. I don't have any idea how you can take that much material off when polishing. I could of and should of done it myself. Don't know anything about Green Loctite so I will do a little research on that today. I have only talked on the phone to the shop so haven't personally looked at the bearing fit. Looks a drive to town is going to be in the near future. I tend to avoid town any and all times. Ken |
#6
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Quote:
It is a possible situation that they thought it was a shaft that was operating in a casting, instead of light pressed into ball bearings. It happens,--- but my thinking is you are not responsible for there work/mistakes. Loctite 620 is good to .0059 Cheer up, there have been about 50 missions to Mars and most failed in one way or another, and with much greater cost.--- Now I ain't saying we didn't pay for it with tax money Technical Information Agency Approvals / Specifications DVGW (EN 751-1): NG-5146AR0622 Color Green Fixture Time 60.0 min. Gap Fill 0.15 - 0.25 mm Key Characteristics Strength: High Strength, Cure Speed: Slow Cure, Temperature: High Temperature Operating Temperature -55.0 - 230.0 °C (-65.0 - 450.0 °F ) Shear Strength, Steel 26.0 N/mm² (3800.0) psi ) Substrates Metal: Steel Viscosity 8000.0 mPa·s (cP) LOCTITE 620 is similar to 630 and 638 (google will educate you) |
#7
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And I'd caution against any suggestion to "dimple" or knurl the shaft. You'll always get the guy that says "..well an old millwright/mechanic neighbor of mine did it all the time and never had a problem." They usually follow up with a story about ten thousand dollar shaft on a multi million dollar machine that is still operating today and better than it ever was.
A precision knurl WITH Loctite can be a decent repair. Dimpling with a punch often results in a damaged bearing. And the dimples supporting the bearing on the power stroke side will be pounded flat pretty quick. Every time you (think) you hear a new noise you'll wonder about that bearing packing in. |
#8
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Use high quality "muffler bearings" and put them in an eye dee shrinker first.
That will Get er done! |
#9
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Quote:
talking about I will just consider it a poor practice. At this point I figure they owe me the whole project back to me at no cost. The block work isn't worth much without a crank. Or a new crankshaft, I am sure they will not like the cost of that. Come to think of it I feel like I got the shaft. We will wait and see. Ken |
#10
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I'm a little confused are we talking about the connecting rod journal or the fit for the ball bearings ? big difference as what the alternatives could be, if the rod journal is out of spec then have the crank cut 010 and go with a 010 over rod if the bearing journals for the roller bearings are 002 undersize ( don't know why a shop would mess with those ) then some of the loctite 638 bearing retaining compound which is an oil resistant product can take from .005 up to .009 out of a loose fit .maybe it's just me but I've seen many things called various names ,re reading the post I guess when it says main bearings you are talking about the roller bearings out on the end of the crank !!
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