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#1
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Help - wheel restoration?
I need some advice on whether I should try to save these wheels?! Is it even possible to sandblast them and paint them and keep them from just rusting under the paint? I have not had the tires off yet so I don't know how the rims are. But the tires never went flat which I think is good. I don't even know if they have tubes.
I have wheel weight for the rear wheels. They held in a lot of debris and moisture which caused a lot of rust. The weights themselves should be easier to salvage. Is it a worthwhile project or futile? Thanks! Bob |
#2
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I'd say they should clean up to paint I've seen some like that people can use a scrub brush and comet makes a big difference. then prime and paint.
Depending how far you want to go with it. You can sandblast and use epoxy to fill in dimples to smooth out before painting to make like new, or prime and paint for the 10' effect
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Every time I find the key to success, someone changes the lock |
#3
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Bob,
Is it futile? No. Is it a lot of work? Yes. Is it cheap? No. Is it worth it? Yes. 6" cup brush and angle grider will take off 40% of rust and paint and will save a lot of compressor time. Sand blast, it's the only way. I've got off 100% (lot of blast time) and I've done them removing only the lose paint, maybe 60%, either way comes out ok. Remember that the sand or blast media will get into the areas you won't otherwise be able to and even if all the paint is not removed it is cleaned and preped. Wipe down with denatured alchohol, you can use reducer or laquer thinner too. Prime with self-etching primer and use non-catylist for plenty of cup time, two coats. Prime within 20-30 minutes of blasting otherwise it will flash on you. Paint with automotive grade acrylic enamel, 8 parts enamel, 1 parts 'wet look' hardner, 4 parts reducer. Most auto paint shops will have CC color codes and formulas. Let air dry 24-36 hours. Bake in conventional oven each piece one hour @ 225 degrees. Do NOT bake if you choose to use some sort of soft oil base such as Rustoleum. Ready for mounting. Scott |
#4
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Heck, those wheels are in good shape.
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#5
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yep, cup brush, and sand blast.. Fill the deep pits in with filler and you will have a great looking set of wheels.. PITA, but well worth it when your done!
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#6
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If you can find someone local with industrial size sand blaster I would take them and have them sand blast them. At the most $50 and they will be bare metal. Be sure to wear gloves when you pick them up as the oil in your skin will leave impression in the wheel. Primer as soon as you can as they will quickly get surface rust. IH paint in a rattle can and they will look new.
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#7
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Since I've been caught up with these Cub Cadets, one of the most useful items that I've bought is a 20 lb sand blasting tank from Harbor Freight. It was on sale for $50. If you have a good air compressor, you'll use the sand blaster more than you think!
http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/cta...emnumber=40925 |
#8
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Use eastwoods......
The eastwood company is a parts store for auto painting etc. they have SEVERAL rust encapsulators ,preventers that you can use AFTER you sand blast,that will gaurantee it wont come back .Contact your local auto paint store they may have some thing called POR-15 basically same thing,any rust that is left it will encapsuleate it and prevent the return of it.
note: if you go this route you can paint right over top of it.they suggest useing a rust coverter first then encapsulator www.eastwood.com |
#9
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I have that snadblaster it works ok just some of the valves are cheap but I did my wheels with it turned out awesome
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#10
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you said you wanna get rid of the weights?
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