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  #1  
Old 07-11-2024, 01:18 PM
Triglet Triglet is offline
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Default Governor Cross Shaft Tab Repair
Hello all.

In the process of rebuilding a K241AS off of a 104 my grandfather had in the shed. About to start putting back together after having it bored/valve job/etc.

Before I can start I need to address the cross shaft tab being loose. Looks like the rivet has loosened up and the tab can rotate 15 degrees or so in each direction. While the engine ran prior to tearing down I did notice that it sounded like it was over revving at WOT and governor adjustments didn't have an impact - now I know why.

So, recommended repair on that? Haven't seen a lot of info on this other than people just replacing it. Seems like overkill for a loose rivet.

Peen out the existing rivet? Replace with a new rivet? Try to find someone who can tack weld it without warping it? Is there room for another type of fastener perhaps? Other?

Appreciate any help!
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  #2  
Old 07-11-2024, 03:19 PM
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Billy-O Billy-O is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Triglet View Post
Hello all.

In the process of rebuilding a K241AS off of a 104 my grandfather had in the shed. About to start putting back together after having it bored/valve job/etc.

Before I can start I need to address the cross shaft tab being loose. Looks like the rivet has loosened up and the tab can rotate 15 degrees or so in each direction. While the engine ran prior to tearing down I did notice that it sounded like it was over revving at WOT and governor adjustments didn't have an impact - now I know why.

So, recommended repair on that? Haven't seen a lot of info on this other than people just replacing it. Seems like overkill for a loose rivet.

Peen out the existing rivet? Replace with a new rivet? Try to find someone who can tack weld it without warping it? Is there room for another type of fastener perhaps? Other?

Appreciate any help!
I think your existing governor would be more worn out than just the loose rivets. So, being safe than sorry, I would replace the governor gear.
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  #3  
Old 07-11-2024, 04:37 PM
Triglet Triglet is offline
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Thanks for the reply.

I think the governor is fine - had the cast iron version which was unexpected and it looks to be in good shape as far as wear unless I'm missing something.

The tab on the cross shaft is what I'm asking about - see the attached pics.

Thanks again
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File Type: jpg Cross Shaft 1.jpg (8.6 KB, 59 views)
File Type: jpg Cross Shaft 2.jpg (7.5 KB, 59 views)
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  #4  
Old 07-11-2024, 07:54 PM
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DeltaCub DeltaCub is offline
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Replace both the shaft and the gov gear! It will save you time and money in the long run.
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  #5  
Old 07-12-2024, 12:43 PM
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CubDieselFan CubDieselFan is offline
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I agree with the experts. Replace it and it is good for another 50-55 years.
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  #6  
Old 07-12-2024, 05:09 PM
Triglet Triglet is offline
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Appreciate the replies all. I went a different direction from what was suggested based on the following for anyone coming across this in the future. Mostly cost related.

I mic'd the cross shaft and found it to be consistent across it's length, so minimal wear. I believe worst case here would be that it would leak oil out of the bushing to the exterior which I can live with.

The rivet on the tab was loose as mentioned, so I peened it out with a punch and got it to snug up. Still wasn't perfect. Norm at isavetractors (rebuild kit source) got back to me and recommended tack welding it. So took it to a local shop and they did it for a google review. I'm happy with it - pic's attached.

Concern was warping - the tab had a slight warp, which doesn't matter in this application and the rod is fine so I'm going to use it as is.

As far as replacing the governor - just don't have it in me to replace a cast iron part with a plastic part. There's minimal wear on the teeth and no snags/burrs on the flywheel's/rod so I'm going to go with it.

Appreciate the suggestions - I will post back if my roll of dice costs me in the future.

Thanks!
Attached Images
File Type: jpg IMG_1208.jpg (8.6 KB, 34 views)
File Type: jpg IMG_1209.jpg (8.2 KB, 35 views)
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  #7  
Old 07-12-2024, 07:54 PM
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I would buy a new one, 40.00 and be safe. There is a reason why it is riveted on there. When the tab breaks off after being made brittle from the weld, you will loose a whole engine rebuild.
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  #8  
Old 07-12-2024, 08:10 PM
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And a new bushing to replace the leaking one is what, 10, 12 bucks?
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  #9  
Old 07-12-2024, 08:15 PM
Ambush Ambush is offline
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It looks like your welder got enough heat in there to cause discolouring and carbon flaking. Both bad signs.

There are not many fixers that are more DIY than me and with fifty years of welding, fabbing, machining and repairing I wouldn’t put that in my motor. Not for the price of a good one.
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  #10  
Old 07-13-2024, 09:22 AM
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ol'George ol'George is offline
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I'm Cheep .
if it was not available, unobtanium, one of a kind, try it.
But for a cost of a movie/dinner, your running and no worries with a new one.
You can't take your $$$ with you, The gubbermint prints worthless money every day and gives it away.
Do something for yourself and get new.
Good luck either way.
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