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#1
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Oil leak on my 149
When I bought my 149 I knew it had a fair sized oil leak (wet, not caked on dirt). I haven't run it much so it hasn't been a high priority to fix. Checking it out it looks like most if not all the leak is coming from around the governor shaft. It has some play front to back and not much up and down so I figure the bushing is worn. The problem is I think I know something on this. I think the cause of most leaks is mostly pressure in the crankcase finding it's way out. I don't see a breather tube on this engine but, I have seen looking online that, there is a reed valve that can let pressure build up in the crankcase. I haven't checked the compression so I'm not sure I don't have blow by. It doesn't smoke at all for what that's worth.
So what do the better heads than mine say? What do I do first? Thanks Jerry |
#2
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First thing please note: I'm not so sure I am a "Better Head" but I'll tell you what I know.
Could be blow by... Not being one to want to tear down a motor unless I really have too, the first thing I would do is take that breather out and check it over. It's a pain because you will probably have to pull the carb off to get to it. PAY CLOSE ATTENTION when you take it out, there is supposed to be a small hole (Maybe 1/16") in the bottom of the innermost piece of the breather, people have been known to put this part in up-side-down. If that is the case the breather will fill with oil and blow out all over the place, if it is in right-side-up then check the hole to make sure it isn't plugged (some people say that the hole should be drilled out a very little bit, but I have never had the need to do this). Then check and clean the little filter inside the breather, also check the seal on your dipstick, it should fit fairly tight in the tube (this can also cause the oil to blow out in crazy places). I have a 122 that is doing the same thing, I just haven't had the opportunity to look into it yet. The motor starts and runs so sweet and it doesn't smoke at all, it just pukes oil out all over the place. Some of the other guys will be along shortly to give you other tips on what else could be causing the problem... Good luck and keep us posted. |
#3
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One real fast thing you can do without taking it apart to see if you have a vacuum in the crankcase is to build a U-tube manometer, remove the dipstick, connect the manometer, and run the engine. The procedure is in the manual. According to one of my Kohler manuals, an engine in good condition should have 15" water vacuum. Then you can see if you have a vacuum issue or something else.
Having said that, your breather is probably dirty or messed up. I've got a couple that leak in that area, but I haven't had a chance to fix them. |
#4
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Jerry , U can see how to build and use a u-tube on U-tube !
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-p8oZucZiv4 |
#5
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Thanks to all
It sounds like I was thinking the right way. It was tempting to buy a bushing to try to fix it that way. I have a Cub Cadet dealer within easy walking distance of me. If I wasn't so cheap it would be easy to Easter egg problems. I'm going to start with cleaning and checking the reed valve. If that doesn't get me anywhere I'll rig up a manometer. (That's a new idea for me. Great tip) If I have a pressure problem I'm thinking to do a wet-dry compression test. I wish I'd kept the compression gauge I had.
Thanks again Jerry |
#6
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Great Idea there Eagle keeper !
That would be good info in the Tech. Library if it don't get taken off You Tube.
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Every time I find the key to success, someone changes the lock |
#7
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And the winner is Yosemite Sam.
Okay in that innermost piece there is a small hole that is supposed to be at the bottom. I can see it's possible to overlook that and put it in upside down but, mine has TOP etched in good size letters on that piece. It was still in there upside down. I don't know if my leak is completely fixed but if not it's a whole lot better. I may not have to park it over a box of sawdust anymore.
Thanks Jerry |
#8
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Crazy how something so simple can cause such a mess and headache.
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