Need help with belt(s)

110Octane · #1 09-22-2011, 03:44 PM

I'm new here, but have worked on about every kind of machinery for over 40 (maybe 50) years. I recently acquired a CubCadet LT1045 lawn mower with some problems. I dropped the mower deck and there are some frozen bearings. My question is about the PTO engine pulley. It looks as if there is no provision for the PTO clutch pulley to move up and down when the mower deck is lowered and raised; if so, no wonder these machines throw belts with the frequency and complaints that abound. Asking a belt to change the angle of the plane, especially with such a short distance between drive and driven pulleys, is not wise design. Please tell me that I'm wrong about this...and I will accept any suggestions as to how to improve the idler pulleys, alignment, etc. I know this thread started out about the drive belt to the hydrostatic transmission but it is a recent thread and it is about one of the mower type later model machines, so please excuse the interruption.

Vince_o · #2 09-22-2011, 09:10 PM

First off welcome!

your right and wrong. First your right about all the stuff about the belt angle. Its crazy! Where you MAY be wrong is, how low are you mowing with the deck? I have tones of people that mow on 1 and 2. your really not sposta do that. But with our type of southern grass, its almost impossable to not do that.

There are a few differant belt and spindel set ups on that unit so look closly at the pullies, something tells me your over qualifed for the job,

and also look at the tensioner on the deck. Be sure its not frozen, Ive seen lots of them throw belts because of that.

Hopes this helps

110Octane · #3 09-22-2011, 10:49 PM

Thanks. The idlers are frozen. The steering needs some attention (crude setup to start with). The gas was rotten. Changed all filters, changed out gasoline, need to rebuild carb. I was just staring at the belt angle and I found it almost impossible to believe that any one with any design experience would try a stunt like that.....

Vince_o · #4 09-23-2011, 06:28 AM

Dont know what eng you have but I have found that its better to replace the carbs than rebuild them. If the fuel celonid is slow to open, it will never run right.

The steering, that so called bushing and gear, is an under statement of a weak spot. I replace them all the time, most times I do it right on the trailer or in the back of the truck and get 30 bucks for the job. Takes 5 min, thats not including getting to parts out of stock.