Picked Up New 1811 Project

[jkmola]

I stumbled on an ad that said couple tractors - need work. A simplicity that runs good but needs a battery, and an 1811 that they said worked great but then wouldn't start. He thought it might be an ignition module, but wasn't real sure. But for $100 (for BOTH of them), couldn't pass them up. Everything is there far as I can tell on the 1811 but the engine shroud (baffle?) on the left side, and the front grill. I'll have to pick those up.

The Kohler has 800 hrs on it. Contemplating just rebuilding it, then not having to worry about it again for a lonnnnnnnng time. Or just see if I can get it running first and see what it needs. She's in really good shape, so I plan on stripping her down and repainting. I put a new battery in yesterday - turn the key and nothing. So some electrical troubleshooting today or tomorrow to get the starter to turn. If I can get her turning over I'll do a compression check to see what kinda shape the engine is in and go from there. As I get deeper into this, I'm sure there will be questions to follow. Here's some pics

[jkmola]

Not sure why the pics won't show. I think I did everything right. If you right click on the box, you can view the pic. I'll try and figure it out.

[inspectorudy]

On the 1811 if you just jump the solenoid you can tell immediately if it is a wiring problem or a starter/solenoid issue. There is also the glass fuse below the steering wheel that can be blown. Good luck!

[jebow2]

To engage the starter motor on an 1811 the pto switch must be in the off position(down) and the brake pedal switch must be closed(pedal depressed). Download the chassis service manual for the 1811 garden tractor here on OCC in the Technical Library-Tractors. You will find 2 schematics for the 1811. Use your serial number to determine which one is correct for your tractor. There could be other issues with your tractor such as bad wiring or connections, just follow the wiring schematic using a voltmeter to see where you lose the starter solenoid voltage. I picked up an 1811 with a no start condition a couple of years ago and found bad connections at the pto switch.

[jkmola]

Already checked the fuse - good. Brake is down and locked. The seat safety switch is just hanging out the back. Said it still ran, but I have no idea if that is true or not. Held it against the frame, still nothing. There is some cobbled up wiring behind the ignition switch, seems like a good spot to look next. Anybody make the wiring harnesses for these??? The troubleshooting continues.

I already have downloaded the manual - it's permanently open on my laptop! I'll follow the steps you outlined and see what happens there.

[R Bedell]

What is the Chassis Serial Number of this 1811...???

[jkmola]

Sn = 790,222

[R Bedell]

S/N = 790222

Good, now I can look into the diagrams. Your tractor is a 1989 model.

OK, for the engine to roll over, the following has to happen. (A) The Fuse (20A) has to be good. (B) The Ignition Switch has to function correctly, (C) The PTO Switch has to be in the OFF position, and (D) The Brake Pedal has to be depressed.

This of course, has to take into consideration that (A) It is wired correctly, (B) The wire and connectors are in intact and in good quality condition, and (C) that devices (ie: Switches) are in good condition and function correctly.

Sounds like a tall order but if you have a Test Meter (VOM or DVM) it can can traced down within a few minutes.

[jkmola]

Haha. I'm pretty mechanical, and I can follow electrical diagrams as long as they go in a straight line - but as soon as they start going into funny signs and crossing each other, I get lost pretty easy

[jkmola]

Mr Bedell - I see you are an administrator. Could you please look and tell me what I'm doing wrong posting pics? I'd appreciate it