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#1
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IH 682 Repower to M18
My son and I purchased a really nice m18 to put into his IH 682. We are in the middle of the tear down and cleaning phase and I want to see if anyone has done a KT17 to M18 conversion. Below are the items we foresee needing help with but will take any suggestions. Thank you in advance.
- Wiring - the current tractor has a 2 wire plug going to the engine and the M18 takes a 3 plug. Any advice on what needs to be? - PTO - I have not measured how far the pulleys sit away from the engine but I know they are different sizes. Will there be any issues using the newer, larger pulley PTO from the M18? |
#2
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The M-18 is a drop in replacement for the KT-17 except for a minor wiring change. There are two ways to handle that. (A) Install a "kill relay", or (B) install a different Ignition Switch.
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[B]Roland Bedell[/B] CC Models: 100, 105, 1450, 782, (2) 784, & 2072 [SIZE="4"][B][COLOR="Red"]Buy:[/COLOR][COLOR="Blue"] Made in the USA[/COLOR][/B] [/SIZE]:American Flag 1: |
#3
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As far as the PTO:
IF the M'18 came out of a cub cadet, it should have the same PTO pulley. If it didn't, but the crankshaft is the same diameter, your KT17 PTO will bolt on. Post some pix of it, if this is not the case. Do take care removing the PTO assy as you do not want to damage the pulley or mounting flange. You will also have to remove the lower muffler attaching nuts to get to the studs on the upper PTO mount. At times the old muffler does not want to come off the exhaust nipples because it is rusty, also the clamps are rusty.(don't beat on the old rusty muffler) do note most times it is easier to remove the exhaust manifolds with the muffler, but taking caution not to break the exhaust manifold studs off while loosening the nuts. (It sounds more complicated than it is) Wiring: You will find a white magneto kill wire coming out of the grommet with the 2 spark plug wires on the fan shroud, that wire, when grounded, will kill/stop the engine. Since you do not have a ign coil, you will not need/use the coil power wire from the ign switch. later on we will tell you, as Roland mentioned, how to wire up a relay to kill the engine or replace the ignition switch with one that has a stop/ground/kill position for stopping the magneto from producing spark. Clear as mud? |
#4
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My bad, my comment was based on a M-18 coming out of a Cub Cadet product. M-18's coming from "others" may have more modifications.
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[B]Roland Bedell[/B] CC Models: 100, 105, 1450, 782, (2) 784, & 2072 [SIZE="4"][B][COLOR="Red"]Buy:[/COLOR][COLOR="Blue"] Made in the USA[/COLOR][/B] [/SIZE]:American Flag 1: |
#5
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Quote:
I replaced a KT17 Series II with a Command 18 (link in signature).
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Why Farm Half When You Can Farmall? 1282 | 44C Deck, Chains, 42" Blade, Cast Weights, 020" Over K301 * 1711 | 50C Deck, #1 Rear Rototiller w/ Extensions, Sleeve Hitch, KT17S Series II 24302 --> CH18S * 1811 | 46 GT Deck, 42" Blade, Chains, M18 Magnum, Sleeve Hitch * 1782 | 60" #375 Deck, Kubota D640 Diesel * 1862 | #450 Snowblower, M18 Magnum * 782 | Y/W KT17 Series II, Sleeve Hitch * 984 | Y/W Onan/Linamar 20HP, Sims Cab, CAT 0 3 PT w/ Rear PTO, 60" #374 Deck |
#6
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The topic is about the M-18, though.
__________________
[B]Roland Bedell[/B] CC Models: 100, 105, 1450, 782, (2) 784, & 2072 [SIZE="4"][B][COLOR="Red"]Buy:[/COLOR][COLOR="Blue"] Made in the USA[/COLOR][/B] [/SIZE]:American Flag 1: |
#7
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Thanks for the feedback.
As far as pulley size, the original KT17 has. 4.5” pulley and the M18 has a 6” pulley. The m18 came out of a cyclops that I purchased for the dual hydro controls. It just so happens it had a great running, low hour engine. I believe I am going to try the relay approach to the wiring. I found the attach wiring diagram online and thought I could reuse the relay from the donor tractor (pic attached). Let me know if anyone disagrees with the diagram. My father makes replacement motor to plate bushings since the original are thin and can eat into the engine case. Just thought I would share what has worked for us. |
#8
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The larger spacers will work well, although I've not run across a situation where the factory spacers had a problem, but
I can understand if the bolts came loose there might be a problem. I can't comment on your schematic, as when I blow it up to see, it is as fuzzy as a kitten. There is a relay diagram on this site that Roland can link as I lost my saved links when my hard drive done quit. |
#9
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Let me know if this version is better.
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#10
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It's still blurry but from what I can see, it will work.
The operation theory is: Basically the relay terminals you are using for mag ground are normally closed, that grounds the white wire, until you power the relay. Powering the relay with the wire that normally was for power for the ignition coil, opens the relay contacts so the magneto is no longer grounded. That coil wire is powered in run with lights (if equipped), run, and start positions of the ignition switch. Ya I know, you didn't need all that info, but it might help someone who wants to know how simple stuff works, and my coffee is still brewing. |
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