clutch removal

fer100 · #1 07-05-2009, 04:13 PM

Need help guys

I am trying to take out the spiral pin at the rear of the drive shaft. I sprayed it with penetrating oil. I have tried removing it out from the top (creeper holes) and bottom but it will not move. Any ideas? I'm going to get a longer punch and a bigger hammer and see if I can use more force or can I damage something! Can this pin be drilled out?

fer100 · #2 07-09-2009, 09:02 PM

If I remove the engine on a 122, can you take the clutch apart while its still in the frame? I can't get the spiral pin out. I'm using a 4 lb sledge hammer and a 18 in punch and a lot of WD40.

MBounds · #3 07-09-2009, 09:30 PM

Fer100: WD40?? Since WD stands for Water Dispersal, is your Cub Cadet under water?? If not, why are you dispersing water????

Myron B

fer100 · #4 07-09-2009, 09:36 PM

I've tried penetrating oil. I figured I would try WD40. I've been trying to get this out for a week.

Yosemite Sam · #5 07-09-2009, 10:10 PM

MBounds, is correct. If you or anyone else out there thinks that wd40 will penetrate rust or lube something up, then... Lord help you. There are several GOOD rust penetrators out there, PB Blaster is the first one that comes to mind (sorry but my boss thinks that wd40m is a lubricant/penetrate (makes me crazy)).

Then, get yourself a SPIRAL PIN PUNCH, it will be the same diameter as the spiral pin, and has a small protrusion in the center.

Please understand that I'm not telling you these things in such a brutal manor because it is "the right way" of doing this job, I'm telling you this because it will make your life SO much easier and it really is one of the small things that make the difference between enjoying what you are doing and hating to go work on that &@mn thing.

clint · #6 07-09-2009, 10:10 PM

Use heat (propane torch etc) and try to keep the heat located on the roll pin, drilling it out will be futile unless you use a carbide drill with very high speed as the spirol pin is hardened

Merk · #7 07-09-2009, 11:02 PM

Sears have a nice set of roll pin punches that works good on removing pins in the driveshaft.
http://www.sears.com/shc/s/p_10153_1...eyword=punches

Quote:

by clint
Use heat (propane torch etc) and try to keep the heat located on the roll pin, drilling it out will be futile unless you use a carbide drill with very high speed as the spirol pin is hardened

Odds are you will ruin the imput shaft seal when you use heat. I would use a low rpm drill speed with a carbide drill bit or any style drill bit....too easy to work harden the pin.

Matt G. · #8 07-09-2009, 11:05 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by fer100

If I remove the engine on a 122 can you take the clutch apart while its still in the frame? I cann't get the spiral pin out. I'am using a 4 lb sledge hammer and a 18 in punch and alot of wd40.

You can, but it would make more sense to remove it so you can replace the driveshaft itself, as it will most likely be worn out.

clint · #9 07-10-2009, 09:16 AM

Merk the problem with drilling the pin is it is hardened to begin with, carbide is extremely brittle and the layered pin combined with the hole in the center is just to much to be snapping carbide drills= $$$ you could buy a shaft by the time you purchased a couple of carbide drills. I use carbide a good bit, in applications like this ( and most anything carbide) high speed and low feed, I'm not arguing with you, I guess we just go at getting something done in a different way which is great to share info on a forum like this.

If your worried about damaging the seal you can make a heat stop a cold water rag will do great to stop the heat from transferring through the shaft. I think with a propane torch you could direct the heat right to the pin only ( it does not have to be red hot to begin with) if heating only the pin does not work then you need to put the cold water soaked rag or rags to stop the heat and reall heat the pin up.

Merk · #10 07-10-2009, 06:06 PM

Clint,
I have 30 plus years as a machinist. I've been using carbide tools for 20 to 25 years. Most of the material I machine is 300-400 series stainless steel, 1015-1144-1137-4140 steel.

My current job is setting up new parts-machines and debugging CNC programs and tooling. 95 to 98 percent of the tools I use are carbide.

I've been down the road with hi speed-low feed rate. Hi speed will make more heat than low speed will. Heat is what breaks down tooling (carbide drills example) and make the the part you are trying to machine harder to machine.

There are different ways to do a task. I'm not here to argue which way is is better. I'm just trying to pass on what I've learn from doing.