LT1046 fuse blowing

[MikeGB]

I have a short which I am trying to trace, but haven't been able to find any shorted wires, I'm thinking it's possibly the ignition switch or the PTO switch, any pointers you can send would be appreciated, by the way, it's my first time in this forum, I am not familiar with how everything works
Thanks, MikeGB

[jbrewer]

Hello Mike

I'm looking at an online schematic of that 1046. I'm assuming it's the 20A fuse blowing.

It looks like the RED/BLACK wire coming from your fuse holder heads to the key switch.

If it was me, I'd try removing (and labeling) the other wires attached to the switch:

Yellow
Green
Orange/White
Red


then turn the switch on and see if the fuse blows.

If it doesn't, turn the switch off, attach one of the others one at a time and find which wire it is that blows the fuse.

Then when you know that we can look in more detail.

The PTO switch if in the OFF position should not blow the fuse unless the primary wiring is shorted to ground.




Edit: It also looks like the PTO line doesn't go through the fuse at all.

[Billy-O]

I think this has been said a few times before ..... try tracing back to the headlight wiring.

[MikeGB]

Yes it is the 20 amp fuse
I just fixed a very loose connector on the safety brake mechanism and after putting everything back together, the fuse doesn't blow anymore, therefore that might have been the problem, but this problem went away a few times already and always came back, its been intermittent, therefore I will have to use it and see if it comes back. Anyway, your suggestion on isolating the problem at the switch makes a lot of sense, I will do that if the fuse blows again.
Thank you, much appreciated, Mike

Idid check the headlight wiring and it was fine

[Red Dave]

Originally Posted by MikeGB

Yes it is the 20 amp fuse
I just fixed a very loose connector on the safety brake mechanism and after putting everything back together, the fuse doesn't blow anymore, therefore that might have been the problem, but this problem went away a few times already and always came back, its been intermittent, therefore I will have to use it and see if it comes back. Anyway, your suggestion on isolating the problem at the switch makes a lot of sense, I will do that if the fuse blows again.
Thank you, much appreciated, Mike

Idid check the headlight wiring and it was fine

A loose connector won't blow a fuse. To blow a fuse requires drawing excess amps. A loose connector would actually result in a high resistance, which would draw fewer amps.

Look very carefully at all the wiring, especially where it contacts anything metal. There might be a place where the insulation has rubbed through. It can be a very small place.

[jbrewer]

Glad you got it going Mike. Enjoy it!

[MikeGB]

Ok I still have a problem, the fuse doesn't blow anymore but the switch cranks the engine in switch position "RUN 1", as opposed to "START" position, I checked continuity on the switch 4 positions and all 4 are as specified on the schematic. any ideas??

[CubDieselFan]

I am not familiar with that model but what you are describing sounds like a bad switch.

[MikeGB]

ok thank you, I am also thinking its the switch, I unplugged everything and I still get 12v going to the solenoid on key switch position "RUN 1"