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#1
07-21-2022, 09:28 PM
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2072 driveline question
Okay, this is the 2072 I was working on last winter and I'm trying to find time to work on it but I never have time anymore.
I pulled the rear, did the drain holes and added rear braces. I bolted everything back up and all is good. I pulled the motor to replace the front & rear oil seals, cleaned everything up, glued one magnet back on the flywheel and relaced the bearings in the front PTO. I then replaced the fan, all of the ball bushings and flex disc joints on the driveshaft. Then I placed the shaft in the tractor and bolted the rear coupler to the input shaft. I reused the drive shaft, the flange assembly that bolts to the motor, both shaft couplers on the shaft and the splined coupler for the pump. Next I got the engine back in the frame and slid it back to the driveshaft Here's where the trouble starts.... The motor plate will not bolt to the frame because the holes won't align up. The black circle is the hole in the frame for the bolt. IMG_3389 - Copy.jpg I shoved everything back as far as it will go but it won't go anymore. I ran into this issue when I did my 882 and I had to make a new driveshaft. That is a problem for me because it will require a lathe for a SGT driveshaft since the shaft is 3/4" but turned down to 5/8 on the ends for the ball bushings. I tossed the old flex disc's in the trash months ago, so I'm not sure how thick they were. I purchased these flex disc joints years ago from my Local Cub Cadet dealer so they are OEM. Here are the new flex dics's, and the measure 0.75" when bolted in. IMG_3392.jpg How important is this pin in the rear splined coupler? If I remove it and shove the coupler back 1/4" everything lines up and the motor plate can bolt up. I don't see a reason for the pin but I'm pretty sure Cub didn't put it there for nothing. IMG_3390.jpg TIA
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This ain't no hobby....it's an addiction 
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#2
07-22-2022, 08:15 AM
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Oak, I just drug home a 2072 roller this week.
Well it WOULD be a roller if 3 of the tires held any air!! The driveshaft is still in the tractor as the motor is MIA. I'll pull the cover and take a looksee and get back to you. I'm sure the spirol pin is meant to be there. Our plan is to re-power with a Command 23 I guess it will be a 2372 then??
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#3
07-22-2022, 08:28 AM
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My suggestion is...... To install the engine FIRST, then install the Drive Shaft and Flex Discs afterwards.
On my 784, there is tension on the Flex Disc's (double on each end) and I have to use a pry bar to get things lined up on the holes in the OEM drive shaft. It is not a lot of pressure, but there still is some there. 
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[B]Roland Bedell[/B] CC Models: 100, 105, 1450, 782, (2) 784, & 2072 [SIZE="4"][B][COLOR="Red"]Buy:[/COLOR][COLOR="Blue"] Made in the USA[/COLOR][/B] [/SIZE]:American Flag 1:
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#6
07-22-2022, 12:14 PM
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From another member. It looks like the new flex discs are thicker.
839FF757-1DB0-42F4-8B43-51F52E7F05BE.jpg
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This ain't no hobby....it's an addiction
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#7
07-22-2022, 04:11 PM
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You could just slot the 4 holes that the engine bolts to on the motor plate and slid the engine forward.
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2264 with 54 GT deck 1641 AKA Black Jack with a 402-E Haban Sickle bar mower JD317 dump truck BX2670 with FEL
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