Mission Creep - The long tale of how a 2166

[Packard V8]

Several years ago, I mowed with a 2135 and the PTO developed intermittent operation. I found a 2166 which had been used to tow a salt spreader; as a result, the footboards were rusted through but the PTO had never been used. I bought it for $200 as spares for the one I was using. The 2135 PTO problem turned out to be the push-on wiring connector, so the clutch never had to be replaced.

The 2166, only made 2000-2003 or so, started and ran perfectly, but closer inspection found a cracked right front kingpin housing on the axle end. Bought a used axle for $30.

One dark night, the 2135 was stolen, so now the 2166 had no purpose, so it needed to go away. I thought it would be worth more if it had a functioning mower deck. After years of searching craigslist, I found a perfect 48" deck with the fan-assist bagger blower for $100.

So now, I've got $330 in a mower which I don't really need and will end up selling after several hours of labor to get it fixed up.

1. The new/used front axle went on with no problems and I greased everything while I was there.

2. Sitting in storage for all those years completely "perished" the fuel lines. Had to replace all the rubber from the tank to the carburetor. The long line from the tank was cracked in a zillion places and the short right angle molded piece at the carb had deteriorated inside and was completely plugged.

3. The carb still isn't working, but the engine starts and runs when manually primed. The anti-diesel solenoid does retract when manually fed 12v, so I'll have to test it's also getting voltage when both start and run are energized. (Anyone else get pissed every time the Kohler carb has to be worked on? They have to be worked on a lot and that design just sucks. Not being able to remove the air filter base without disconnecting the linkage is really a PITA and then having to reinstall the filter mounting cup to be able to test run, but then the linkage isn't functional. Ten better methods of mounting an air filter and carb linkage than that used on the Kohlers!)

4. Since the floorboard is rusted away, I thought I'd check and to my amazement, they are still available new, albiet for $200 delivered or $100 ebazed used. I keep hoping to find a parts machine locally, but then it took five years to find a mower deck.

5. It's alive! Naturally, after being in storage, the carb was gummed up. I disassembled it, blew it out and now it starts and runs perfectly. This 16hp 2166 actually starts and runs better than the 13hp 2135 I used for years. That was one cold-blooded engine.

6. The next question is why the never-used PTO doesn't engage. Most likely the problem is somewhere in the OEM switch and all the interlocks. It's amazing how few wires are actually necessary for the engine to start and run and for the PTO to engage/disengage. And yes, your opinions and results may vary, but on these older models, most of the problems are in the interlocks.

The CC OEM switches are JUNK! and the start/run/PTO operation traces through several of these junk switches. After having continual random problems and then paying the big bucks a few times for replacements, most of us just go with a industrial aftermarket and never have a problem again.

FWIW, the tractor is rewired and ready to go/mow; just need the correct length engine-to-deck drive belt. Since the 48" deck is from a later/larger model, what is the chance a 2166 belt will be the correct choice? From the internet, it's supposedly a B-series 112.4" long. That wasn't in stock at the no-longer-a-CC-dealer, nor at the two industrial supply houses, so I took a chance on a 111" and it worked.

Couldn't resist a few turns around the large, rough back 1/2-acre. The 2166 with 48" deck and 16hp is MUCH more tractor than the 2135 with 36" and 12hp. The larger wheels make a noticeable difference in feel and the wider deck makes for a shorter mowing time.

Still to come is the belt-driven fan-assist clippings blower and mounting a twin bagger. Never used one of those blowers, but it seems as if it would take 5hp just to drive it. Also, will maybe add just enough too much width to the 48" deck to be really usable in the front lawn full of trees and flower beds. Also still to be determined is if the 48" deck will deliver a smooth-enough cut for the front lawn.

Anyway, the trial run was so successful it makes me think of selling the new Toro ZT and keeping the old CC. The cast iron Kohler makes half the engine noise of the aluminum V-twin Briggs & Stratton on the Toro and the tractor works on hillsides the ZT won't handle at all.

Anyway, the work invested won't bring much of a return if/when I sell this mower, but I do like the old 2000-series Cubs, just not the wiring systems.

jack vines

[titleist1]

Great Save and a good write up! For a mower with a smaller deck for the tight areas I have to negotiate I like the 21xx series. I had a 2135 and now have a 2155. I share your dislike for the interlock switches. Fortunately I haven't had to mess with the carbs repeatedly, the initial rebuild / gumout along with fuel line replacement was enough to make them reliable.

I know what you mean about the sale price not being worth the work invested, but if you get a couple years of use out of it (until you find the next fixer upper!) before selling it will narrow the gap.

Any oil seepage from any shaft seals or gaskets?

[Packard V8]

Thanks for the support.

I've still got to change the transaxle fluid and filter and find a new seat. Yesterday, at North 40, I bought a 5-gallon pail of hydraulic fluid and I looked through a half-dozen seat choices in the $50-75 range. Then, I found one twice as good for $45 more. Unfortunately, it's for larger machines and won't fit the CC sheet metal without major reinforcement.

Since the metal is terminally rusted and is cosmetic only anyway, I've thought about just removing it entirely and having a bare frame and engine machine. I'm the only one who'd think it was cool and the wife would not want it on the place.

jack vines

[Packard V8]

Just spent an entire Saturday afternoon replacing the running boards on what had been a junked mower. Yeah, I should have taken a 'before' photo to show how the foot rest area was completely rusted away on both sides.






Anyway, went to the scrap yard and for $12, bought a used aftermarket diamond plate aluminum pickup truck running board. Cut it to fit, bent to follow the missing sheet metal, bolted and pop-riveted it in place.

If and when I go to sell it, I won't make minimum wage on the time invested, so I must like to do this sort of resurrection.

Then, there's the new $80 seat.

jack vines