Yes, Another Steering Wheel Removal Question

[MDchanic]

Hello All! Brand-new member with my first genuine Cub Cadet problem.

I'll present Just The Facts first, then the social niceties second.

1970 (manufactured November of 1969) Model 147, first owner didn't use it, sold it after about 15-20 years in a garage, second owner used it 4-5 times a year for 27-32 years to mow an easy acre, kept it in a dry pole barn (as pole barns go) with a concrete floor. It's essentially a rust-free machine.

It's got the "fancy" steering wheel, as seen in the "Only Cub Cadets" logo at the top of this page, and in my avatar, which leads to my problem:

I've read the threads and watched the videos about steering wheel removal.
I tried using an air hammer on the column with the nut backed off (used a metric socket-head screw with a large head that was exactly the diameter of the column and slid right inside the nut to hammer on). No luck.

I did spray it with Kroil.

I did NOT try to hit it with a sledgehammer, so as not to damage the box casting.

I can't heat it, as it will melt the plastic wheel.

I can't make a puller with a piece of hardwood, or use a bearing splitter, or the $90 custom puller, because the bottom of the steering wheel has a tapered plastic collar that is integral to the wheel and will break if I use it to push against.

I can't make some sort of elaborate puller that rests on the spokes, as they will bend.

What's next? I thought of using R410 (boiling point -55°F) to freeze the column, as I can't heat the wheel, but that's all I can think of.

Anybody else have any better ideas?


The social part:

I am the new owner of an old Cub Cadet 147.
It was purchased new in the winter of 1970 by the custodian of my grammar school, and used to clear snow that year (which did have a large snow storm).
After that first year, safety regulations made the original buyer remove it from the school, and he kept it in the garage of an apartment building, essentially unused, for about 15 to 20 years, until my father heard about it and bought it.
My father removed and sold the plow and electric lift motor and had a mower deck installed, used it to mow the grass at his house, and did essentially nothing else to it other than change the oil, from then until this year, when he bought one of those electric zero-turns and gave it to me.

I'm no perfectionist, but I'm the sort who's bothered by minor flaws in my machines, so I've already fixed the one bad headlight, replaced the missing hood bolt, adjusted the brakes so the actually work, repositioned the battery hold-down to the factory configuration, figured out all of the part numbers of the consumable parts, and ordered a pair of generic taillights (one Speaker 143 lens is missing and nothing else will fit on the base – Holy Crap, those original lights are expensive!), replaced the left steering spindle (sloppy roll-pin hole), and taken the deck down (broken belt), which is why I figured I Might As Well take off the steering box and clean and check it out.

One day I expect to take the machine all apart and do a full "refresh" (I wouldn't call it a restoration), but for now it should be a better machine for me than the tinny Troy-Bilt "Pony" that came with the house.

Thanks for any help you can offer,

- Eric

[R Bedell]

First, welcome to OCC.......

Your tractor is 50+ years old. Things are going to need attention. Either from use or just sitting around. That is part of the fun (or process) of working on an older Cub Cadet.

Fortunately, parts are still available to get your tractor back in shape, Unfortunately, since the Plandemic, the prices of good used, aftermarket, and new parts have skyrocketed. You'll just have to bite the bullet on that issue.

You certainly could try using R-410A Refrigerant. Wouldn't hurt a thing, except we and the EPA don't want to hear about it. You just might have an FBI Swat Team show up at your door, at 6:00am.

[MDchanic]

Originally Posted by R Bedell

... welcome to OCC.......

Thank you.

Originally Posted by R Bedell

... the prices of good used, aftermarket, and new parts have skyrocketed.

Not a problem for me right now – I don't really need anything. Just gotta get the wheel off so I can go through the steering box.

Originally Posted by R Bedell

You just might have an FBI Swat Team show up at your door, at 6:00am.

Been there, done that. Wisest advice I ever got: Never say ANYTHING to the FBI without having your lawyer present.

- Eric

[MDchanic]

A couple of photos so you can see what I mean:



"Fancy" type Steering Wheel




Spokes come together to metal hub, with molded plastic encasing them




Using a socket-head bolt as an anvil for the air hammer




Nothing for the bottom half of a puller to press up against without destroying something


- Eric

[darkminion_17]

Try tightening the bolt, the loosen it, then use the air hammer while sitting in the seat, pushing up with your legs and see if that helps. All else fails, remove the steering arm, then the bottom plug, and hit it with a BFH. BTDT

[MDchanic]

Originally Posted by darkminion_17

Try tightening the bolt, the loosen it, then use the air hammer while sitting in the seat, pushing up with your legs and see if that helps.

Done all that except the tightening part.

I'm slightly concerned, that, unlike a normal nut and bolt, this is a tapered shaft, and tightening could increase the grip of the taper.

I've thought about removing the bottom of the steering box and whacking it that way, but I wasn't sure that that would convey any advantage in the end.
If it's worked well for you in the past, I'll probably try it.

Thanks,

- Eric

[ironman]

I believe a wooden puller such as I have pictured would work without doing damage if placed just below the steel spokes as red lines indicate.
My reasoning is that the spokes are steel and they are structurally part of the splined steel hub.
So any upward pull would be exerted on the spokes and directed right to the hub, with no pressure to the plastic.

Of course, I'm not suggesting that you go Hulk Hogan on it, but apply pressure and then rap the shaft of the puller with a hammer.
If no joy, apply more pressure and rap again.

[ironman]

Originally Posted by MDchanic

Done all that except the tightening part.

I'm slightly concerned, that, unlike a normal nut and bolt, this is a tapered shaft, and tightening could increase the grip of the taper.

I've thought about removing the bottom of the steering box and whacking it that way, but I wasn't sure that that would convey any advantage in the end.
If it's worked well for you in the past, I'll probably try it.

Thanks,

- Eric

It is NOT tapered

[MDchanic]

Originally Posted by ironman

I believe a wooden puller such as I have pictured would work without doing damage if placed just below the steel spokes as red lines indicate.

I see what you're saying.

I'd need to get the diameter of the hole just right, but do have a lot of hole saws, so there's a good chance I've got something about right.

It'd make me nervous, because I've only got one steering wheel, and it's nice, but if I need to, I'll try that.

Thanks,

- Eric

[MDchanic]

Originally Posted by ironman

It is NOT tapered

Okay. I thought there was a small taper after the spline.

If not, that's good. Makes for one less thing that I'm fighting against.

Thanks,

- Eric