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#1
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1811 Won't move
Hey guys need help. I was mowing today and the 1811 just stopped dead in it's tracks. I have no idea what is wrong. I didn't move it because I was scared to tear it up. I don't even know where to begin. I'm just all distraught over this. Can anyone tell me what happened and how to fix it? I'm pretty good with tools but I just don't know anything about garden tractors. I own a hammer, cresent wrench and a pair of pliers. I have a few wrenches from Wal-Mart too. I just can't be without my main machine! It's supposed to rain here for the next few days and my yard needs mowed. Do you guys think I blew up the hydro? It's really old and has a lot of hours on it. Can I get parts to fix it? Is it going to be expensive? Can anyone come help me?? I knew just what to do when I quit. I finished picking up my stuff and came straight to the computer to make a post before even looking at the tractor. I figure the guys at OCC can tell me what happened and how to fix it.
AAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHH HHHHHH!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! |
#2
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Did you check the fuse for the PTO?
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Tim Pap's 100 Restored 108 1211 Dual Stick 1050 Pap's 100 restoration thread - http://onlycubcadets.net/forum/showthread.php?t=47965 |
#3
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Did you check the air in the tires?
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Up to 530 and counting... I give up updating my profile! |
#4
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Uh-oh, you done broke it and didn't get the grass cut. Boy are you ever going to hear about this one.
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2072 w/60" Haban 982 with 3 pt and 60" Haban 1811 with ags and 50C 124 w/hydraulic lift 782 w/mounted sprayer 2284 w/54" mowing deck |
#5
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I think you need to check to make sure the hydro linkages are moving properly. Easiest way to check it out is to cut some sort of hole in the tunnel cover so you can see down in there. If you don't have anything like a sawz-all, go get a round, metal hole saw at your local tool place. If you want to save a few bucks, hunt around everywhere you can online to find the cheapest one. You'll probably have the tool in-hand in 5-7 business days.
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#6
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Ok, first of all, we need pictures. How is anybody supposed to help you if we don't have pictures? Second of all do you have gas in the tank? Gas is rather important.
By the way have you checked your fuel to oil ratio? When you pull the dipstick there should be at least 25% gas in the oil pan at all times. This ensures proper combustion from the lower end of the engine to help push the Piston back up after the "Power Stroke". Third of all is there a spark plug anywhere near the machine? If not I suggest you find one and throw it hard as you can at the muffler. It's kind of a long shot, but if you do manage to strike the muffler with a spark plug it will cause a chain reaction most of the time ending up in a backfire but will make the engine run. Fourthly did you check to make sure there is indeed an engine underneath the hood? Now that the engine is running, it is time to check the drive line. Is there one? If not we will need pictures. Typically there is a shaft sticking out the front of the engine which should have a pulley mounted on it going to a black thing on the side of the engine this creates electricity. It has nothing to do with your drive line. Just about all Simplicity garden tractors have a belt going from the engine to a component of some sort somewhere on the machine. Find this component and completely disassemble it. Once disassembled you should see a ball bearing. With the information you have provided it's highly suspect that your machine has not been greased in quite some time. There are several YouTube videos showing you how to do this. The best advice I can give you is to take a ball bat and hit yourself over the head repeatedly until the machine is completely greased. We will need pictures of all of this. I suggest that you post them on an expired Photobucket account Let us know how it comes out
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1- 1864 Dual hyd, cat 0, axle braces 1- 1450 Dual Stick w/ power steering 1- 1200 in pieces 1- 1864 in pieces QA36A Thrower, #1 Tiller w/ extensions, IH windbreaker, IH wheel weights, 44C mower deck, 50C mower deck, CCC 54" Blade, GT46 high vacuum deck, GT54 deck, Cub Tripple Bagger, Custom dozer blade, Custom suitcase weights, 3pt cultivator, lawn sweeper, original R-Bucket |
#7
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I did not... I thought that just affected the lights? Will it also make it not move?
My tires are fluid filled. Do I still need to put some air in them? I have one of those little hand held pumps to air up a basketball. Will that work? I know. I never going to live this down! |
#8
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Quote:
Quote:
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#9
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I think the nut that holds the wheel is a bit loose. Lol
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With my son, EricR Super 2084 with 54" mower, 451 blower. 2086 with 3 pt hitch, 54 inch deck, 551 blower, 54 in brinly blade. A 4 digit original w deck. A 70 with deck. 2 102s both with 42 in decks, one with creeper, 1 36 inch IH snow thrower CW36, 1 42 inch IH blade. 149 with mower. 2072 w 3 pt hitch, Johnny bucket, 60 in mower, 451 blower. Jacobson GT 10 with mower. DR Lawn vac tow behind,Home made lawn roller. Brinly cart, 2 off brand carts and 1 home made cart. |
#10
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What do the guys on the JD forum say? I know you've probably asked them about your Cub first. Don't forget to ask your old uncle Al, the one that used to work for a farmer back in the '30s. He'll know whats wrong!
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149, 2072, Original, 1772, 1782, #1 cart, Parker 48" sweeper, |
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Cub Cadet is a premium line of outdoor power equipment, established in 1961 as part of International Harvester. During the 1960s, IH initiated an entirely new line of lawn and garden equipment aimed at the owners rural homes with large yards and private gardens. There were a wide variety of Cub Cadet branded and after-market attachments available; including mowers, blades, snow blowers, front loaders, plows, carts, etc. Cub Cadet advertising at that time harped on their thorough testing by "boys - acknowledged by many as the world's worst destructive force!". Cub Cadets became known for their dependability and rugged construction.
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