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#1
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Which hydraulic components?
A future project I have planned will require hydraulics. Is the cylinder, lines, controls and power unit all I need, or am I missing something?
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Killin deers and drinkin beers |
#2
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YUP.....that's it until we have more information.
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[B]Roland Bedell[/B] CC Models: 100, 105, 1450, 782, (2) 784, & 2072 [SIZE="4"][B][COLOR="Red"]Buy:[/COLOR][COLOR="Blue"] Made in the USA[/COLOR][/B] [/SIZE]:American Flag 1: |
#3
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I was thinking of making something too. Not sure if it will need hydraulics though. What do you think?:biggrin2.gif:
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#4
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I'm building a loader. I want to lift 500lbs, but want to keep the frame light. I know I need a long stroke cylinder for the raise, and a small one to dump the bucket. I'm looking for a power unit that will control both, I know I'll need a small reservoir tank and lines (obviously). What I'm wondering is do I need a pump and power unit? Should just be the power unit right?
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Killin deers and drinkin beers |
#5
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Please define your version of "pump" and "power unit".
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#6
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The pump is the power unit. Unless you mean the control valves.
One more thing you can't forget Stitch....Hydraulic Fluid! :biggrin2.gif:
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Fly Fishing is not a sport...It's a way of life. |
#7
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If you're planning on being able to lift 500 lbs, you will not be able to build it 'light'. The OEM loaders built by Kwik-Way, Johnson, Danco, etc had a load limit of 250-300 lbs. or so. It would not be wise to try to lift more than that with a small tractor such as a Cub Cadet, IMHO. You will need a massive amount of counterweight to be able to lift that. You need to have a decent factor of safety built into the structure to avoid breaking it under abuse.
A 100 drained of all fluids probably weighs not much more than 500 lbs... |
#8
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500 lbs was rough. I have a lot of thinking/planning to do. What I am planning is to build the frame from 2 inch square steel tube, with 1/4 inch walls. Assuming I try for a 250 lb capacity, would this work? I'm more of a novice welder so far, but everything I've done has worked out well.
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Killin deers and drinkin beers |
#9
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Stitch, you don't need 1/4" walled box. 3/16".....maybe even 1/8" will work because it's boxed. But the welds need full penetration, with no pinholes.
You'd be surprised how strong square tubing is when welded right. The lighter the loader, the less counter weight needed. Say you're lifting 400#......you need to add the weight of the bucket and arms when figuring counter weight. Bobcats don't have 1/4" thick tube.... I was just told my 124 weighs 625#. The trans, and wheel gotta equal half, plus the driver....400#-500#. You probably need another 100# per wheel, and load the tires w/rimguard. But that'll only even it front to rear. It could still tip side to side....I've seen them with dualies....that'd be optimum setup.
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Fly Fishing is not a sport...It's a way of life. |
#10
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Here is a site that has plans for a loader:
http://www.p.f.engineering.50megs.com/index.html Not sure how they charge for the plans to build a loader. They do recomend what hydraulic pump, cylinder and control valve that work with their loader plans. |
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Cub Cadet is a premium line of outdoor power equipment, established in 1961 as part of International Harvester. During the 1960s, IH initiated an entirely new line of lawn and garden equipment aimed at the owners rural homes with large yards and private gardens. There were a wide variety of Cub Cadet branded and after-market attachments available; including mowers, blades, snow blowers, front loaders, plows, carts, etc. Cub Cadet advertising at that time harped on their thorough testing by "boys - acknowledged by many as the world's worst destructive force!". Cub Cadets became known for their dependability and rugged construction.
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