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#1
11-17-2016, 09:07 AM
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1863 Running Like Crap
Last spring I had a hydro leak on my 1863. I took the fender pan off and pressure washed the whole tractor. found and fixed a leak. After I got it back together I cranked it up and it was missing. I thought I just got some of the electrical stuff wet so I took it to the shed to dry out. 5 months later I have it back in the garage still running bad. In June it was missing on one side now it misses part of the time. Today I plan to change the plugs, put some fresh gas with Seafoam in a bottle and run it to the fuel pump, change the switch that it has been needing (I think), check the spark with a tester (wish I had 2 testers). I've had this tractor since 2012 and have never had the flywheel cover off to clean it, any reason to do that if I have good spark? I removed the air filter and can hear the fuel solonoid clicking.
Cannon 
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#2
11-17-2016, 09:33 AM
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I've had a few tractors that started to miss after pressure washing, turned out that mice ate the coating off the plug wires underneath the blower housing. It could also be possible you got water in the gas.
__________________
Tim Pap's 100 Restored 108 1211 Dual Stick 1050 Pap's 100 restoration thread - http://onlycubcadets.net/forum/showthread.php?t=47965
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#3
11-17-2016, 12:19 PM
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I removed the battery and replaced the switch. Drained all the old gas and rigged up a gas supply, and cranked the tractor. I would miss off and on for a few minutes then it cleared up for a while. I got on the tractor and moved it forward and reverse and it would miss when I changed directions. That made me think it might be gas in the carb. I didn't have any new plugs but I hooked up the spark tester and cranked it again, the right side had a constant light on the spark tester. I tested the left and the light was weaker and any missing was accompanied by a very weak light in the tester. So unless I'm missing something looks like I need to pull the engine and find a short or bad coil. Should I remove the kill wire at the switch or engine connector and test again?
Cannon
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#5
11-17-2016, 01:38 PM
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I had 1864 with a bad coil. The plug on that side had a lot of carbon on it. I replaced both coils. I also found a mouse on top of the coil.
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1572, 1864 x2, 1810 x2, 1863 & GT1554(Dad's Ole Mowers), 1811,782D, 1872 x2, 782DT(Sold), 3235, 1860, 1772 with 3-point and Turbo.
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#6
11-17-2016, 03:33 PM
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It's out. Had a little trouble with a broken bolt. I thought I remembered 6 bolts holding the 1641 engine plate but only found 4 bolt heads under the tractor. When I started trying to slide the engine forward it was hung up on the broken bolt. The other side didn't have a nut welded to the plate. Excuse the pictures, I know most of you have garages that look like a picture in Southern Living but I don't live that way.
 Cannon
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#7
11-19-2016, 10:56 AM
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I took the cover off this morning. There was quite a bit of caked up crude on the housing and a coating on everything else. I'm thinking I probably should remove the flywheel and see if the seal is leaking.
Cannon
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#9
11-19-2016, 12:06 PM
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Pulled the flywheel, the Stator and inside of the flywheel are packed full of wet crud. I'm guessing the seal is leaking some. There were 3 metal push retainers on the plastic cover, are those factory or added by someone?
Cannon
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#10
11-19-2016, 02:25 PM
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Not sure on the retainers but yeah, needs a good cleaning. And probably a seal.
__________________
http://www.onlycubcadets.net/forum/s...ad.php?t=42646  70, #1 cart. Brinly Cultivator. Some wheel weights . {125, 126, 2072-Sold~regrettably, 2284 60 inch Haban 325 deck., 451 snowblower, 2182-60 inch Haban 374 deck- "Money Pit", 401 Haban 54 inch dozer blade- rebuilt, 1440-down the road, Another 2182 for parts. Another 2284 for parts. 450 blower. 1812-sold, 2072 w/ Haban 374, and a 2182#3 w/ Haban 325}-------> All SOLD
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