PTO and clutch bearing replacement: Cub Cadet 123

[knucklescraper]

NOTE: this post should be in IH Cub Cadets GT ... can't figure out how to move it there. I put it in the wrong group.

Questions:

1. How is the pto clutch bearing removed?

2. Should the locking collar be replaced when replacing the bearing?

3. Any installation tips? (I've read the service manual instructions). Is putting anti-seize on the shaft, on the bearing, and on the setscrew threads a good idea to make future removal easier?


Background:

It didn't take long for a new problem to occur since my last post.

My mower deck spindles aren't turning fast enough for the blades to cut. It cut fine before the previous engine broke.

I removed the pto from the engine.


Observations:

1. the pressure spring, throw-out levers, and screws are all loose.

2. the pto is the type with the single pressure spring.

3. the wear button is gone (not the thrust button but the little piece that contacts it and fits into the engaging lever).

4. there are TWO friction disks adjacent to each other.

5. the clutch bearing isn't quite flush to the end of the shaft. it protrudes out over the end of the shaft a little.

6. when rotating the clutch bearing, it is a little draggy, not smooth.

7. the clutch bearing wobbles a little, that is, there's play between the outer race and ball bearings when pushing axially on the top of the bearing and pulling axially on the bottom (back and forth).


My Thoughts:

It seems the pto that was on the replacement engine I put in this tractor wasn't adjusted properly and I didn't notice.

I think I should replace the clutch bearing.

I plan to replace the pto with the same style one from my broken K301AS engine which was working fine before the engine went kablooie. I'll fix the loose pto later. I'll probably take it apart tomorrow.

[dale c.]

loosen the locking set screw , then use hammer and punch to rotate lock collar ,depending on the direction it was rotated to tighten you may have to try both directions to rotate it loose . the bearing should stick out from the crank 1/16"

[knucklescraper]

Thank you Dale C.

What is the reason for positioning the bearing with the overhang you mention rather than say flush or in a bit?

[ironman]

Originally Posted by knucklescraper

What is the reason for positioning the bearing with the overhang you mention rather than say flush or in a bit?

Per the book...

To answer your question, the position of the bearing on the crankshaft puts the pulley of the PTO in correct placement for it's operation by the engagement/disengagement mechanism. In other words, not too far back, not too far forward.

[knucklescraper]

Whoohoo! The cub cadet is running and cutting grass.

Those disassembly instructions were spot on. I was afraid the shaft was going to turn while tapping on the locknut with the hammer and punch but it didn't.

I re-used the bearing from the broken engine. It was in good shape compared to the other one.

After swapping in a used engine, splitting the tractor to fix a hydraulic leak, replacing the PTO and clutch bearing on the tractor, it seems to be working ok.

I ran the tractor lightly for half an hour cutting some grass that didn't really need to be cut. Then I gave it a two hour workout cutting knee high grass, weeds, and vines on some tougher terrain. There are a couple little niggles to look into but everything is working.

Thanks for your help!