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#1
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1200 cub cadet clutch
I am going to replace the flexible 3 pin clutch driver on my 1200, with a solid non flexible 3 pin plate. Has anyone done this? I will be solid mounting the engine also.
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#2
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I put one of Zach Kerbers 6 pin drivers in my 1200. Very well made. Comes with a needle bearing installed so no ball bushing!
https://www.zkbrmachine.com/product-...utch-driver-80 |
#3
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Yup. Put solid motor mounts in at the same time. Kind of a have to thing with a solid driver. I have done clutches on a pair of 1200s over the years, one I got to do twice. When i did that one originally I put in Zach kerber driver and pressure plates, (3 pin) and a non reinforced disc (no metal in center of disc) that disc lasted about 20 operating hours. The 2nd time I put in a reinforced disc and new EVERYTHING else besides the new driver, pressure plates, and driveshaft. And added a blue spring. I also replaced all of the spirol pins and the rag joint. Along the way I also welded in some bushings on the throw out fork and replaced the pin that it hangs by closing up alot of slop on the linkage that I never realized was there when I did it the 1st time.
HUGE difference in clutch actuation, can't believe how much smoother the tractor operates throughout the speed range. |
#4
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I have done two 1200's. I went with the Kerber 3 pin driver....
https://www.ebay.com/itm/Cub-Cadet-3...2DW:rk:12:pf:0 but any model used Cub 3 pin drivers are fine also. You can replace the pins and bushing if needed. I went with solid mounts from Jeff in Pa..... https://www.onlycubcadets.net/forum/...ad.php?t=20875 And did the cradle mod..., https://www.onlycubcadets.net/forum/...ead.php?t=4630 I would also recommend getting your clutch plates resurfaced. |
#5
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Thank you for the responses i will be doing the rail mod. did you have to weld in the steel engine mounts. i am thinking this would be a good idea?
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#6
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#7
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You still need to tie those separate motor mount rails together even with solid mounts. It WILL make a difference. Especially if you have the aluminum pan on that engine, it will vibrate as a unit with the engine instead of separately, less likely to work the bolts that hold the rails to the engine. I'd still suggest blue loctite on those bolts
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#8
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No, not necessary. I think I would refrain from welding them.
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#9
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oh ok I misunderstood. I thought you were talking about welding the cradle rails together ("cradle mod") I agree not necessary to weld the mounts to the cradle, though it might not hurt to put a small tack on the thicker portion that has the counter bore step that locks into the cradle, from the bottom side/ because you only have 2 hands, and it sometimes helps to have a 3rd hand in assembling everything... that quick "tack" may be a big help as that 3rd hand.... but I don't think that I would weld them solid, or "go nuts on them"....that said, I haven't welded a set of mounts to the cradle before/// but then again I never really thought about welding those before, either.
I have seen the holes in the cradle pretty well wallowed out and egg shaped on a couple that I have torn apart. a quick tack, now that you mention it might be a help in getting everything "centered up" again if yours are wallowed/ egg shaped. I'd better stop now or you'll have me overthinking this question, the next time that I cross that bridge. |
#10
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This picture doesn't show much but I don't see any advantage to welding the mount spacers. Once those bolts are tightened down nothing is going to move.
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