Quiet line Cubs #2 and #3 Won't Start

[riflemann]

Mowed with Cub #1 today after fixing Clutch Safety Switch and that Cub is
squared away and ready for next season.

Now for Cub #2 and #3. Both won't start. Cub #2 was winterized(run out of gas) and has not been touched in 15 months. Fresh gas(2 months old), battery good, cranks fine, but will not start. Turns over and finally it just barely starts to fire, usually twice then the solenoid shuts closed and it does not start.

So I swapped carburetor with Cub #3. No change whatsoever! Got my
Lisle Spark Tester Light and it indicates spark to spark plug. So there is no
apparent problem with the ignition. I sprayed starter fluid into carb, NO change. Again, engine cranks good, Tester indicates spark but just and it begins to start, then nothing.

Next I worked on Cub #3. Gas was a little old but ethanol free. Using carb from Cub #2, battery good, cranks fine, but will not start. Turns over and finally it just barely starts to fire, usually twice then the solenoid shuts closed and it does not start. Same as Cub #2!!!

Help!

Thank you for all replies. You all helped fix Cub #1, I got five total and want 4 working.

[Billy-O]

Dormant engines tends to be harder to start. There are many reasons including poor spark, bad fuel, weak or bad compression and so on. Based.on your
description...I would concentrate on the spark. I doubt your spark tester provides you the strength of spark even though it indicates there is a spark. Clean or replace plugs and points as well as make sure the gaps are proper. My hunch is corrosion/oxidation promotes weaker spark.

[riflemann]

That's a good idea. I will buy one new spark plug(I like the Motorcraft brand) and see what that does. Also, will spray contact cleaner on the points. Its raining and I planned an indoor day today, but I will be working on these Cubs again tomorrow.

I have a total of 5 Quiet lines, and my goal is to get 4 mowing good again. The nice thing is I can swap parts around to test different parts, theories on what is wrong.

After I get them all running good I have to get the Mule Drives and mower decks all sorted and mounted. I got two 38's and three 44's. I'm enjoying my Cub Project.

[ol'George]

You might find spraying cleaner will not help.
Better to use very fine emery cloth between the points, then drag a folded
piece of campaign literature through it to clean the minute crud that is left from the Emery.
I mentioned campaign literature because we all seem to have enough to fill a large garbage bag with it.
Myself, I have several diamond dusted/coated point files. but most do not have them and I doubt they are even available in todays pointless electronics.

[riflemann]

Correction on myself: those are Autolite 216 spark plugs

[Grandpa53]

You may want to make sure that you do not have valves stuck open. Any spark at all with starting fluid should get it to running at least while spraying if valves are working correctly.

[riflemann]

How do I check if valves are working properly? Maybe remove spark plug and crank engine to manually see if it is forming compression?

I now have 2 issues with Cub #2

The engine is very slow when cranking. I have 2 batteries and when I hook up either one there is a hesitation turning over the engine. When I connect jumper cables from a battery directly to the starter it still is slow hesitant cranking.

I am going to buy a new battery and try again tomorrow. Maybe both my batteries are on their way out.

But after replacing spark plug and cleaning points I got Cub #2 started by very briefly. After running at a fast idle for about 1 minute, when I increased throttle the engine died and I could not get it restarted......battery was very low from continued cranking.

I am going to buy a new battery and try again tomorrow.

For Cub #3, I will clean points, replace spark plug and add fresh gas.

[Grandpa53]

If it was running that would rule out stuck valves. Now it sounds like a fuel starvation issue. Also sounds like the auto compression release may not be working correctly. To check compression release you'll need to remove either the cylinder head or the valve cover to see if exhaust valve is opening a little bit on the compression stroke.

[green407]

Shouldn't need to replace the battery, just charge it for now.
Or boost it with your car/truck for now at least till you can determine that your battery has in fact failed.

Fresh gas will do wonders.

An easy way to check if your valves are working-ish is to remove the spark plug and put a finger over the hole and crank the engine by hand.
You shouldn't feel much until the compression stroke, there should be some pressure against your finger, then on the power stroke there should be some vacuum on your finger. Then nothing for the exhaust and intake strokes.

[green407]

Originally Posted by ol'George

You might find spraying cleaner will not help.
Better to use very fine emery cloth between the points, then drag a folded
piece of campaign literature through it to clean the minute crud that is left from the Emery.
I mentioned campaign literature because we all seem to have enough to fill a large garbage bag with it.
Myself, I have several diamond dusted/coated point files. but most do not have them and I doubt they are even available in todays pointless electronics.

Love that pun