Painting advice

Danger · #1 05-07-2010, 11:40 AM

Wasn't sure where else to put this, but I feel it's tool related.

I'm getting ready to do some painting and I lack an air compressor that can run a paint gun, so I'm looking for advice on good impact resistant rattle can paints for general painting. Not necessarily Cub colors. In fact what i need to paint now is going to be my 3pt hitch and I'm going black with it.

I've been told to use a self-etching primer, but after that I've gotten mixed advice on which paints to use.

Thanks in advance.

toyman · #2 05-07-2010, 01:29 PM

Just an opinion, but if you are going to use rattle cans, you aren't going to get a durable finish, as compared to a sprayed finish with a catalyst/hardner. I see the benefits of a rattle can finish, as 1) Cost effective (product and equipment); 2) Can get a decent finish; 3) Easy and inexpensive to touch up. If those are your goals, any good brand of paint and primer will do you fine. (Krylon, Rustoleum, Valspar, etc)

Another option, since your painting your hitch, for excellent durability, would be using POR15 as your undercoat. You can brush it on with good results and it is very durable. You'll still have to topcoat it with another POR product or rattle can since it is not UV stable on it's own. You'll spend a few dollars on it also.

A third option would be to look for a LVLP spray gun for the compressor that you have. (As long as it's not a contractor pancake compressor!) They are made to be used with low CFM output compressors. This would give you the ability to spray catalyzed acrylic enamel or acrylic urethanes, which are incredibly durable.

When I paint, I use one of my spray guns. My very general process is grind any rusted areas, treat with Dupont Metal Prep, shoot a good 2 part epoxy primer (Omni) and then an acrylic urethane topcoate (Omni also). Omni is PPG's budget line of paint products that are 30-60% less expensive than their mainline products.

Good Luck!

Oh, and self etching primer. 2 schools of thought with primers. You can treat the metal and then shoot epoxy primer, or you can just shoot the self etching. The etching portion serves the same purpose as the metal prep, but the primer portion of the self-etching doesn't hold a candle to what you get from epoxy, IMHO.

Danger · #3 05-07-2010, 01:55 PM

Good info. But leaves me a little disappointed if there is no rattle can paints out there that will last even a fraction of true catalyzed paints, since I have been unable to find a paint gun that can be run from the lower end compressors.

I don't have a compressor at all at this point as I haven't run into a situation where I've needed one just yet. Everything I've read so far states you need a mid to high end compressor for consistent painting. Usually a 60+ gallon is recommended as the lowest volume to go with since even at those sizes most lack a compressor that can keep up with a paint gun.

And if I'm doing painting there's a good chance I'd want to get an air powered sander and other heavy CFM tools and the low end air compressor can't run those but for a very short amount of time.

On the flip side is will I get the use out of a higher end air compressor to justify the costs($600+) for the compressor alone. I don't plan on doing extensive paint/body work. Impact wrenching could prove very useful though...

toyman · #4 05-07-2010, 03:29 PM

Danger - here's a link to the archives about paint and compressors. http://s6.zetaboards.com/Only_Cub_Ca.../585861/1/#new Check it out.

When I started doing paint and bodywork in the early '80's (hobby), my dad bought a 3.5hp belt driven Montgomery Wards compressor. I can't remember how many cars I painted (in the driveway) with it, nor the number of hours using a DA, jitterbug, grinder, etc. My dad still has it and uses it for pumping up tires. I've gone thru a few compressors over the past 20 years, and finally settled in on a yardsale find. An 80 gallon Speedaire 2 stage from an old bodyshop. I had to refurb it, but it works great. It is way overkill for my use, but I know I'll never overwork it. The compressor before was a 60 gallon Sanborn single stage. I painted a good bit with it and used my DA, grinders, etc, but I would have to let it catch up occasionally. Point is you can make due with a "decent" compressor, you'll just have a little more down time. IMHO, a decent compressor starts by being belt driven and oil lubricated. You can use a direct drive, dry lube unit, but it is disposable and it's life declines every time it cycles. They run fast, hot, loud and produce a lot of moisture. The one I bought I wore out within a year and had worked hard on Sears to take it back.

Also, don't worry about the tank size nor the horsepower. The single most important spec is the cfm. If it can produce 10-12 cfm at 90 psi, it will do a decent job. (That's a good spec for a 110v powered single stage unit) http://www.aircompressorsdirect.com/...S3L3/p688.html
2 stage units will give around 13-16 cfm at 175 psi. http://www.aircompressorsdirect.com/...30-1/p705.html

What kind of gun do you have? If you are using an older siphon feed gun, just about any (decent) compressor will do, especially for painting small things like tractors and implements (ie: not an entire car) If you are using a newer HVLP gun, you'll have potential issues with small compressor.

#5 05-09-2010, 10:17 PM

I've got a couple of the small gravity feed guns from Lowes for $40 each. I bought them as disposable guns but they are so good that I've kept them. $40!

I bought a new 60 Husky from HD, mainly for the tank size, figure I can always upgrade the pump later. But for the $425 IIRC it keeps up very well, 10cfm @ 90lbs....

For under $500 you can be set up. Toyman is right, no rattle can.

You won't get that from a rattle can.

Scott

truckntran · #6 05-09-2010, 10:36 PM

I painted my first riding lawnmower when I was in junior high with a 110 volt 1 HP campbell hausfield we bought from Montgomery Wards. Used the cheapo spray gun that came with the compressor, and that old Yardman shined in its new red enamel.

Remember, there isn't any part larger than the hood or the frame or the rear fender assembly, and you can spray one part like that without running out of air, on even a small compressor. If you are worried about running out of air too soon, just plumb in an auxiliary tank made from an old freon bottle or a portable air tank, and let the pressure build up before you spray.

That all being said, rattle cans are fine for a working tractor.

CMA's129 · #7 05-09-2010, 10:46 PM

Get everything ready by hand sanding or with an electric sander then go down to your local rental place and rent an HVLP paint sprayer for the weekend. Most places will rent tools for sat. and sun. for just the price of one day. I know of one local spot that I can go to on fri. afternoon and still get all weekend for the cost of one day. do you have a sherwin williams handy? most of these have very high end HVLP sprayers for rent that are in a class of sprayers that I could never afford, But you can rent them for a few days and still get a high end job. Reserve one for a holiday weekend like memorial day and get two days for free! Some sherwin williams also mix there own brand of automotive epoxy kill two birds. I think your on the right track buy saving up and starting with a good compresser, I went thru a few willy marts and sears jobs before I broke down and bought an IR cast iron belt drive. when you do get one dont mount it in the same place you plan to paint unless you can plum the intake to the out doors, but there is still a chance that the motor could ignight the fumes. Good luck,be safe and have fun.