147 is Running: Evaluation Pics Plus Stens Engine Rebuild?

TheSaturnV · #1 07-26-2011, 12:49 PM

Hey all,

Well, she runs. I poured some MMO down the hatch and with a quick jump off a car batt, the 147 started right up. The PO said he had it running, but I'm still not so sure. He also said it had no smoke or noises, lol. That one I know is not true. Nothing major, but there is a valve-type ticking/tapping sound. At least it's not a big knock. The bigger issue is that it constantly smokes. Not a bug fogger, but it's a steady stream.

I did do an archive search about the non-Kohler engine rebuilds, and the results were more positive than bad. You can get (apparently) one heckuva complete rebuild kit on ebay for $105.

http://cgi.ebay.com/Master-ENGINE-RE...item588f0d0ca9

I re-ask this question to get some opinions as of this moment. Anyone here use the Stens piston & rod from this kit? Thoughts?

So, onto the evaluation pics:

Inspection cover behind the tunnel missing, semi-circle screen missing from over the drive shaft. Sheet metal is actually in very good condition. Minor pitting on the hood, and no rust in the tool well below the seat!

Front grill insert gone. Axle in fine shape, mower carriage present and in good shape.

This is all that remains of the electric lift. Valve release lever seems to be doing nothing. Machine can be moved only after a day or two of sitting.

Wiring is awful, will need a complete replacement harness. S/G works and charges, although it's a bit draggy.

Original tail lights I believe. Set pan is salvageable, IF I can find the right replacement cover. Rear of fender pan looks rough, but I think it will turn out just fine. Free trailer ball hitch! Tires hold air, but they will all go eventually.

PTO is all rusted together. Dunno if a rebuild kit will do anything for it. Looks like something is missing off the manual lever/actuator?

Looks to be the original carb. Choke disconnected and frozen up.

That's about it for today. Just trying to see what I have to work with, but it looks like a decent base for a full restoration. This will be the first engine that I have to have machine work done on. Looking for a shop now....

ACecil · #2 07-26-2011, 01:01 PM

Nice 147! Glad you got it running!

TheSaturnV · #3 07-27-2011, 09:40 AM

Bump for discussion about the Stens rebuild kits on ebay. Or should I start a separate thread?

wj-ihc · #4 07-27-2011, 10:04 AM

Hey, it appears that the spindles on your front axle are the older style? I have a 147 that has the new style like the quietline. Did they change types somewhere along the way during production of the 147's, or did someone likely just change this one, or mine

TheSaturnV · #5 07-27-2011, 10:38 AM

Sharp eyes.

I couldn't begin to tell you, but the Cub gurus around here will.

It's possible the PO of your machine bent one, then replaced both with what he could find, ie: from a Quiet Line.

Methos · #6 07-27-2011, 01:40 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by TheSaturnV

Bump for discussion about the Stens rebuild kits on ebay. Or should I start a separate thread?

If it's the Sten's kit I've heard great things about them. I was going to use one in my K302AQS but they were back ordered and I was in a rush so we ordered to Kohler parts. The intake valve is a Sten's and I did use the Sten's gasket kit without problems.

TheSaturnV · #7 07-27-2011, 01:55 PM

I've heard the following:

1 - Stens rod will not hold up like the OEM Kohler

2 - Kohler rods are in fact supplied by Stens

3 - Kohler rods are brittle as a banana (whatever that could mean)

4 - Stens head gasket lacks a "fire ring" and will blow out in short order

As far as the valves, piston and rest of the gasket set, I've not heard any claims other than "works just fine."

Not to muddy the waters with a non-issue, but I'd like to confidently buy the "master kit" from ebay. The price is right and the convenience of not having to chase down all the correct parts and pay for them/ship individually, is a bonus.

_DX3_ · #8 07-27-2011, 04:24 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by TheSaturnV

I've heard the following:

1 - Stens rod will not hold up like the OEM Kohler
I am not sure but I will find out. Comparing the stens rod to the original they both seemed to be the same quality.

2 - Kohler rods are in fact supplied by Stens
I don't believe this is true. Kohler rods are Kohler rods.

3 - Kohler rods are brittle as a banana (whatever that could mean)
I have no idea, have not heard this one.

4 - Stens head gasket lacks a "fire ring" and will blow out in short order
This is a fact, they send you a cheap head gasket. I did go to my local dealer and got a "good" head gasket with the fire ring in it. @$12.

As far as the valves, piston and rest of the gasket set, I've not heard any claims other than "works just fine."
All the other parts looked great and the crank bearings I ordered from the same vendor were identical to the OEM bearings I removed as far as the number of steel balls and casing.
Not to muddy the waters with a non-issue, but I'd like to confidently buy the "master kit" from ebay. The price is right and the convenience of not having to chase down all the correct parts and pay for them/ship individually, is a bonus.

That is where I bought my kit for my 128. The only gaskets missing or that did not work was the breather to carb gasket, and the points cover gasket was not included. The motor has not been fired up yet due to the fact I am not done with my 128, but I was very happy with how every thing fit and turned out with the rebuild kit.

jmack · #9 07-27-2011, 04:41 PM

Nice 147, looks to be a great restoration project. I have one available in my area but the electric lift is completely gone. What are your plans for bringing it back? A quick check showed me the parts we not easy to come by, but if you were patient stuff comes up on eBay and sponsors occasionally... didn't seem like a $50 expense though.

Also when you pull the foot rests apart let me know how you do it. My 127 is completely rusted up there... so far I haven't found a large enough screwdriver to properly turn the bolts. Also complicating matters is the nuts are spot welded to the bottom of the tin.

westofb · #10 07-27-2011, 05:35 PM

jmack, invest in an impact driver, usually you can get one for less than $10.00. They are like a screw driver on steroids, they come with different bits to fit different headed screws. To use one, select the appropriate tip, set it to turn counter clockwise (lefty lousy), then strike the end with a big hammer. It works on the same principle of an impact air gun, the shock of the blow sets the tip into the slot and loosens the screw at the same time. I would soak them with PB Blaster for a day or two in advance. If that method fails, you can cut off the sides of the heads with a dremel and try a vice grip on it, if you go this route, heating the nut/ bolt will help.

I got all of mine out (149, but same set up as yours) by using method one, except for one stubborn one that required option 2. I bought stainless button allen head bolts to replace the screws, if you do likewise, use antiseize on the threads to keep them from galling in place.