HVLP spray systems?

[nophun]

Anyone here use one of these systems that doesn't require an air compressor? I'm looking at a Fuji spray model pro2 that sells around $400.

I don't have 220 to my detached shop, I thought if these systems were adequate for painting Cubs and impliments that they might be a better solution than running the extra electric. I'd likely also use it for wood finishing on a couple projects in the future.

The garage has 220 and a compressor, I don't really want to spray paint in there though.

[cooperino]

Originally Posted by nophun

Anyone here use one of these systems that doesn't require an air compressor? I'm looking at a Fuji spray model pro2 that sells around $400.

I don't have 220 to my detached shop, I thought if these systems were adequate for painting Cubs and impliments that they might be a better solution than running the extra electric. I'd likely also use it for wood finishing on a couple projects in the future.

The garage has 220 and a compressor, I don't really want to spray paint in there though.

Yes, I have used HVLP sprayers before. The one I had was not good for using multi part paints. However, It did perform well with water born paints. Is the one your looking at heated air?

Just looked. Mine is a Earlex 5500. I have the option for air to mask on it also

[nophun]

Originally Posted by cooperino

Yes, I have used HVLP sprayers before. The one I had was not good for using multi part paints. However, It did perform well with water born paints. Is the one your looking at heated air?

Just looked. Mine is a Earlex 5500. I have the option for air to mask on it also

Would be using it to paint Cub frame and bodywork, single stage enamel with reducer and hardner. If I got good results, I'd probably use it to do the bodywork on my old MF 135 as well.

It says it's heated air, but I think that's just heat from the blower compressing the air, not an actual heater inside.

I'm not looking for restoration results, but don't want it all rough and orange peeled either.

I painted a deck a couple years ago with a brush and that actually flowed out pretty well, so I'm thinking with the right reducer I should be able to get good results.

I've got a pro level HVLP gun, but again I'd have to tie up the garage and don't want over spray all over the place or fumes seeping into the house.

[cooperino]

Originally Posted by nophun

Would be using it to paint Cub frame and bodywork, single stage enamel with reducer and hardner. If I got good results, I'd probably use it to do the bodywork on my old MF 135 as well.

It says it's heated air, but I think that's just heat from the blower compressing the air, not an actual heater inside.

I'm not looking for restoration results, but don't want it all rough and orange peeled either.

I painted a deck a couple years ago with a brush and that actually flowed out pretty well, so I'm thinking with the right reducer I should be able to get good results.

I've got a pro level HVLP gun, but again I'd have to tie up the garage and don't want over spray all over the place or fumes seeping into the house.

The whole trick with any type of spraying is that you have as little moisture as possible feeding your gun. Thats why the air is heated or preconditioned air.

When I used mine for single stage and also tried base coat/clear coat with it, the issue both times was I could not get a "slow" enough reducer to cooperate with the paint because of the heat produced by the unit. Im guessing thats why the water born paint worked fine. When using a compressed air gun and a filter there is no added heat to my gun from the source.

I would choose compressor spray gun every time over one of these systems. For one thing they are just easier to control. The smaller compressor line is not in the way as much as the large hose for these systems.

The regular compressed air type are also less likely to bog down mid way through a paint pass as well. Every once in awhile the Earlex would bog a little. This could have been from another circuit in the building turning on and pulling amps on the main. Either way it changed the spray pattern since that system is tankless air pressure.

If I were you with no 220 volt service for compressor. I would buy the largest 110 volt compressor i could find. For painting you dont need a lot of pressure. you just need volume. So find a compressor with a large tank. I use an air dryer attached to my compressor but I also have a condesent filter on my output hose to gun and a throw away filter attached to gun where the hose attaches.

We have a large compressor doing this but we spray almost every day. You dont need a real big compressor if your only spraying every once in awhile.



Just an added note. Yes. Over spray is minimal with these systems. However the reason is because the paint does not atomize in the same fashion. It gives a thicker "not always desirable" spray.

[nophun]

Thanks for the feedback.

I can add more about 150' of hose and just use the main compressor as well, it just seems like it would be a hassle. Maybe I'll look into piping a quick connect out the back of the garage, might be handy to have air out there.

[cooperino]

Originally Posted by nophun

Thanks for the feedback.

I can add more about 150' of hose and just use the main compressor as well, it just seems like it would be a hassle. Maybe I'll look into piping a quick connect out the back of the garage, might be handy to have air out there.

Be very careful with long hose runs. That will certainly add to water and other contaminates at your gun. For longer air runs we have been using 200psi rated pex with good results but you have to add another filter

[Dart1917]

I've only used turbine setups for probably the last 15 years. Once you get the hang of them they are great. Like Coop said, the paint drying to fast from the hot air is the biggest problem. Go with a slower reducer than normal and a little more than normal. It takes a little practice to find the right combination but you can get good results. I've painted machinery, tractors and a couple cars base coat/clear coat. The other good thing is very little overspray so less mess and less waste.