CC 149 axle shaft leak

[AGillis]

Hi All

It’s been a while since I’ve posted here but still have and work my CC 149 regularly. Last year I noticed my hydran fluid was leaking from the axle shaft seal on the right side of the tractor. I drained the hytrans fluid, removed the diff cover and axle and replaced the seal. The axle seemed to be ok but could have had a slight groove. Anyway I reinstalled the axle, cover and refilled with hytrans and the leak remains. So I assume my axle shaft has a groove.

I’m thinking a repair sleeve and new seal is the way to go. Have any of you installed repair sleeves? If so what size and who did you buy from. Any other tricks that can be done without pulling the axle

Thanks in advance
Arthur

[Digger]

Be a lot easier to contact Rob Houtz above and get 2 axles.
https://cubcadetusedparts.com/

[darkminion_17]

You also may have damaged the seal when you put the axle splines through the seal. A removable plastic sleeve works well for this.

[AGillis]

Originally Posted by Digger

Be a lot easier to contact Rob Houtz above and get 2 axles.
https://cubcadetusedparts.com/

I thought about that and if new axles weee available would consider it. But given these are all 40 years plus old the likely hood is the used ones are damaged.

A sleeve is a cheap alternative.

[AGillis]

Originally Posted by darkminion_17

You also may have damaged the seal when you put the axle splines through the seal. A removable plastic sleeve works well for this.

This is the second set of seals. I thought maybe I damaged the first seal so I changed it. Given I was able to install the other side without issue and this side twice with leaks both times. That tells me it’s the shaft not the seal.

[Ambush]

Often there is room to move the seal about 1/8" if the problem is a groove in the shaft. If the problem is pitting, then moving it won't work. Sometimes a differently rated seal will have the lips in a different location. If it has a low pressure rated seal, go for a pressure rated seal.

Remove the shaft, give it a polish and see what the damage is. Post a close up pic if you can.

Sometimes you can aggressively sand the seal area in a lathe. The pressure spring inside the seal's lip can be shortened slightly to add more pressure as well. But that only works if the surface is smooth.

You should be able to buy a Speedi Sleeve.

[AGillis]

Originally Posted by Ambush

Often there is room to move the seal about 1/8" if the problem is a groove in the shaft. If the problem is pitting, then moving it won't work. Sometimes a differently rated seal will have the lips in a different location. If it has a low pressure rated seal, go for a pressure rated seal.

Remove the shaft, give it a polish and see what the damage is. Post a close up pic if you can.

Sometimes you can aggressively sand the seal area in a lathe. The pressure spring inside the seal's lip can be shortened slightly to add more pressure as well. But that only works if the surface is smooth.

You should be able to buy a Speedi Sleeve.

It’s been a while but I am pretty sure I seated the seal till flush. Guess I’ll pull the axle and clean it again and set the seal a bit deeper. How do I tighten the pressure spring?

Thanks

[ol'George]

Remove the garter spring with your finger, snip off maybe 1/4" and bend the coil back on the spring , restoring the eyelet as you do on any custom length spring.
Then hook the eyelets back together as they were originally.
Its best when hooking them back together, that they are not unduly twisted,
In other words the ends are not trying to twist just a natural relaxed re hooking together.
A wire cutter/needle nose works well.
You are in essence just increasing the tension on the seal.

This is not recommended on something like an engine or electrical motor that is turning high rpms day after day year after year, as it causes the seal to wear out quicker and additional grooving on the shaft.
But in order to do this shortening of the spring, ya gonna have to remove the seal prolly ruining it, but with a new seal and not installing it as deep you are going to have a better chance of success.

All that said, you might get lucky and be able to just pick the garter spring out through the shaft hole, shorten it and feed it back in to its home.
To quote Clint Eastwood, "ask yourself, do I feel lucky?"--- well do you, punk? Ha,LOL

[AGillis]

Originally Posted by ol'George

All that said, you might get lucky and be able to just pick the garter spring out through the shaft hole, shorten it and feed it back in to its home.
To quote Clint Eastwood, "ask yourself, do I feel lucky?"--- well do you, punk? Ha,LOL

I live by the laws of Murphy

Axle and seal are out, seal surface looks clean and smooth but I’ll hit it with some 600 paper to be safe. As I suspected the seal was flush. I already relegated it as failed so I did a trial run and was able to tap it in a little less than an 1/8. I’ve never shortened the seal spring but will give it a shot.

Thanks for the advice very much appreciated.

[Billy-O]

I think of two other scenarios to your fluid leak at the seals... First, are the bearings near the seals in good condition? As in no slop on the axle. Too much slop, the seals may not do what they are suppose to do. And less likely number 2, I believe there is a breather on top of differential case ...make sure it isn't blocked up which could build pressure within the case and force oil out.