Broke the 2082 last night

[unklechuckles19]

Well, I decided to get the lawn done before the rain this weekend after work last night. When I finished up, I put the tractor away in the shed, walked back to the garage to carry the gas cans back into the shed and noticed two things, a rather substantial hydro leak from the rear and the whole rear of the tractor sat cocked towards the left. I got it moved back into the garage and went to work to see what was up. Well, looks like both mounting tabs are broken, and there's a broken bolt on the top of the tube, left side of the tractor. Typical weak points as I did some quick research. Where do I go from here? Are these fixable? Get them welded up and and a set of SGT braces from Xtreme, or did I make junk???

[Sam Mac]

Oil leak looks like it coming from someplace up top. Maybe the check valves, the seal for the charge pump or the trunnion seals. I wouldn't even waste my time welding the front mounts, just put the brace kit on. If the rear is cocked sideways you better check the rear attachment points. Time to pull the fender pan and give it a good going over.

Some good tips for you.
http://www.onlycubcadets.net/forum/s...ad.php?t=33244

[unklechuckles19]

I wasn't sure if the braces would eliminate the need for the tabs or not. Looks like I know what my weekend project will be, order braces and rip the rear apart.

[Sam Mac]

Keep the faith, I've saved worse.

[unklechuckles19]

I managed to get into the pump and rear from the top tonight. Unfortunately both left side mounting bolts were broken off. Both right side bolts backed right out. The only thing holding the rear in right now is the drive shaft and the brake mechanism. Whats the best way to disconnect the shaft, is there a way I can split it at the pump or must I take it from the engine?

[Dirty Steve]

Take pictures with each step to help you remember how it goes back together. Disconnect your rear light wires. Unbolt the floor boards from the fender pan. Remove the 4 Allen head bolts from the seat slider rails. Remove the seat with the rails attached. Get fender pan off being careful of seat switch and gas sensor wiring. Good time to remove and clean out gas tank. Take note of oil leaks anywhere on rear end. Disconnect your hydro lever/linkages. Remove the four bolts through the drive shaft fan. That lets the CV joint come appart. Disconnect the hydraulic lines. If your mower has a deck height adjust rod through the back frame connector-remove. Take the the rear frame connector plate off if you have one. Disconnect the brake rods. Support both side of the frame with jack stands. Make sure the 8 bolts holding the rear end in are all removed. Keep the wiring and gas line along the frame protected. Then roll the whole unit out- rolling floor jack is helpful here.

If the cases are intact, get the Extrememotorworks braces.

Things to assess for replacement are:

CV joint boot
Trunion springs
Hydro damper/cam plates
New bungs in gas tank
ALL New gas line
Clean out both gas tank valves

All that will keep you busy!

[unklechuckles19]

Thanks for the tips Steve! I'm down to the trunion linkage and the driveshaft holding the rear in, the rest should be ready to slide out. I've got the frame up on jack stands now, and the rolling jack is handy as soon as I get the shaft and linkages disconnected. I found a video you YouTube showing some things about the trunion linkage I didn't know, so I've got a better angle of attack on that for now. With a wedding to attend today, it's looking like tomorrow is going to be the next chance I get to attack this thing.

On a side note, I did get the brace kit ordered this morning. Once I get this thing all the way apart tomorrow hopefully, I can get after the broken bolts and get the rear torn apart. Although it's a lot of labor, and uncharted territory for me, if I can get this thing back up and mowing it's much cheaper than some of the new mowers I priced out this morning!

[Sam Mac]

Read the tips in the link in post # 2

[unklechuckles19]

Time for a little update I guess. Rear is out and ready for disassembly. I've only taken the rear plate off and drained the Hydro out of it thus far. I need to spin the gears so I can get access to the C clips on the axles, but they won't move. What am I missing here, what else needs to come off to free those up? Once I get the axles out, I have to split the tubes off and work on the broken bolts. I believe I'm going to go Sam's route and just tack a nut on the stub to back it out. All the other bolts are freed up and should back out just fine. Axle braces are ordered, and I'm assembling a gasket and seal list for the local dealer. My wife stepped out into the garage, took a look at the mess I've created and said "my god, if this thing goes back together and works, it'll be a miracle." They hold no faith!

[Dirty Steve]

Good job!

My 2182 rear axles were also a bear to turn in the same direction simultaneously. Remove the brake pucks to see if that helps. Spin one axle at a time to get at the c-clips easier. And wives..... My best advice is and