149 not starting

Mr Bob · #1 12-03-2016, 12:29 PM

When trying to start, the engine will not turn over past the full compression. ACR has not been bothered. Trued up cylinder head and torqued down to 35 Lbs. Could I have taken too much off cylinder head and now it has too much compression? I am stumped. New fully charger battery. New cables to starter.
12.5 volts at starter when starting. Checked all grounds and sanded. All look good. Took out points rod and one end looks like it is not flat. Having trouble adjusting points with static timing. Gap seems to change when I turn the engine around to "S" mark. Any help will be appreciated. Have a great day.
Bob

R Bedell · #2 12-03-2016, 01:38 PM

Take the Spark Plug out and see if it rolls over better!

RustyYellow · #3 12-03-2016, 01:56 PM

How soon after checking battery did you get the reading of 12.5v?

I'd let it set for 1-2 hours after charge and retest in relaxed state(no load) to see of voltage has dropped. If it does, then you have a weak cell(s) and is draining other cells and requires a new battery.

On your points air gap, I'd just turn over engine(without spark plug) for ease and get the points push rod to it's maximum outwards extension, and then set points at the proper setting the manual calls for. This is easiest way I've found as long as internals of engine work correctly.

The head leveling I can't commit on as I don't know how much you did. These engines have some leeway on truing up the surfaces before problems. Hope someone else can help.

Mr Bob · #4 12-03-2016, 02:34 PM

I do have the spark plug out when setting points. Engine turns fairly easy using the front pto to turn it. Charged the new battery last night and this morning had 12,5 volts at starter when trying to start. I believe the battery is good. Seem as though the compression relief is not releasing. Hopefully it would start if the engine would turn over past the compression point.Just seems to have a lot more compression after truing the cylinder head. Have a great day.
Bob

Ash_129 · #5 12-05-2016, 07:22 AM

As far as checking the ACR on your 149. Remove the spark plug, and rotate the engine over by hand a couple of revolutions while watching the exhaust valve. See if the exhaust valve fully closes during the compression stroke, or not. And/or see if it stays slightly open during all rotation.
The factory head on your 149 should have the spark plug positioned over the exhaust valve.

J-Mech · #6 12-05-2016, 09:21 AM

Planing the head and having no leaks makes a difference on starting. You can't take too much off the head by hand. It would take all day of sanding. Your arm would fall off before you planed too much off.

You need to set the timing like this:
http://www.onlycubcadets.net/forum/s...ad.php?t=33461
That is the easiest way.

I'm sure your point pushrod is fine. Did you replace the points?

Checking to see if the exhaust valve is opening during the compression stroke is a fine way to see if the ACR is working. It will open just before the piston reaches TDC, then close again if the ACR is working correctly. If it is not, either you valves need adjusted, or the ACR is not working. Remove the cam side cover to check ACR spring first, then adjust valves as necessary.

Mr Bob · #7 12-05-2016, 12:36 PM

Thank you Ash 129 & J-Mech

Will look down spark plug hole first to see if exhaust valve is moving correctly.
Then I will remove valve cover and check it out through there. Is the valve cover the same as the cam cover, or are they two separate covers. I should check valve adjustment also. Do you have to remove the carburetor to get cover off? To adjust the valves I probably should remove carburetor. Thanks again for the help and have a great day.
Bob
..

J-Mech · #8 12-05-2016, 01:12 PM

Cam cover and valve cover are different things. Carb will have to be removed. Adjusting valves is a good idea, but you should be able to see the valve through the plug hole. You'll need several gaskets to remove all that stuff.

sir_lancealot · #9 12-05-2016, 01:33 PM

Why don't you start simpler than all of this...? Try a new starter to see if that helps...if you've got one laying around. You could have some burned out windings or even carbon buildup inside it. Open it up to see what it looks like inside. Might just need some cleaning.

Mr Bob · #10 12-06-2016, 09:33 PM

OK. Made a little progress today. Checked the exhaust valve by looking through the spark plug hole. Exhaust valve seems to be opening and closing properly. It starts to open about 1/2 crank rotation before "S" marking Then it closes at the "S" timing mark. Kohler points had a little nipple on one side. Took a Popsicle stick and 220 sand paper and sanded the points on both sides. Cleaned all the sanding grit off points and installed them. Set the points using the static method. Did not have a 12 volt light tester, so I set points to "001" with "S" in sight hole on compression stroke. Tractor then started after quite a few revolutions. Ran it for a while to warm it up and then adjusted carb. Turned it off and waited a few minutes and restarted it. Again it turned over more than it should before starting. Wii purchase a 12 volt light tester and re-check points. Will also check the valve lash and adjust if needed, hopefully Wed. or Thursday.Forgot to mention that the starter has been rebuilt by a Company in Logan, Wv. Can't think of the name at the moment. Thanks once again for all the help. Have a great day.
Bob