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#1
05-15-2011, 11:39 AM
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K341 carb rebuild help
A few question:
I am rebuilding the carb from my 1650 K341 engine. The Pros that I think I got right: -I took the carb apart and soaked the parts in carb cleaner. -Scrubbed with a toothbrush all the dirt and gunk. -I rinsed parts with warm water and dried with a hair dryer. -Looks great and all clean. -I got all the new gaskets on. -The float was uneven with the carb body, it was pointed downward on the opposite side of the fuel inlet needle/seat. So I leveled it by eye even with the carb body. ------------------------------------------------------------------------ Cons: -I somehow managed to lose the spring off from the Idle speed adjustment screw!  Will it be ok without the spring?  -I don't think the screw that holds the bowl on the carb is original. It's just a bolt with a nut on it. Will this be ok? -I installed the fuel inlet needle and seat. I did not over tighten just until it bottomed. But the manual says to torque the fuel inlet needle to 25-30 fpt. I have lots of tools but no torque wrench.  Is it essential to torque the inlet needle? I was VERY careful putting it in. ---------------------------------------------------------------- -I set all the idle screws in(except for the idle speed screw with lost spring) until they lightly bottomed so that they are ready for readjustment. Manual says to lightly bottom the screws. Then turn them 1-1/4 turn counter clockwise. -I cleaned the area around were the carb connects to the engine. There was a plastic gasket about 1/4 inch that was placed between the carb and the engine body. If this is correct could I apply some liquid gasket to this just for a little extra comfort? Thats all the I have for now. Looking forward to some grading so I can move forward to finishing it. Thanks, Nathan 
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#2
05-15-2011, 12:03 PM
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i think the spring is just there to keep the screw from moving when the engine is running but not sure and i dont think silicon would be bad i would just run a real thin bead and be sure it doesn't squeez out and go inside the engine and for the float i alway tip the carb up and down to see if i can hear the float ting just to make sure it is free and not in a bind but hopefully someone else will jump in with better advice
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75 Cub Cadet 1650 64 Cub 100 not cub but its yellow 62 allis chalmers b-10
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#3
05-15-2011, 01:10 PM
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Here is the Carb Rebuild link that most of us here have used:
http://mgonitzke.net16.net/tools/carb_rebuild.pdf I would definitely purchase the correct spring to put back on the idle screw. If not the vibrations will more than likely cause the screw to rotate and throw the adjustment out. I just put together my 128 carb last night and as for torquing the valve seat, I just used my nut driver and a firm hand tightness, that is all I have ever done, so you should be fine. If the bolt on the bowl gets tight and seats the bowl and it doesn't leak then no worries. Other than this just look over the above mentioned rebuild link and follow the procedure and see if there was anything you may have missed or miss adjusted. You shouldn't need any silicone on the gasket surfaces. Just tighten everything good and firm.
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DWayne 1973: 128, ag tires, 3pt. lift, spring assist, lights, 42" Deck 10" moldboard plow 2016 XT1 42" deck 18HP
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