16 HP in a 128?

gary1930 · #1 08-29-2009, 10:30 AM

I have a chance to pick up a 1650, mainly for the engine. Is there any reason Cub did not put 14 and 16 HP engines in their gear drive tractors?
I'd like to put that motor in my 128. Thanks.

Matt G. · #2 08-29-2009, 11:41 AM

They did. It's called a 582. (16 hp Briggs. Actually, MTD made an 1806, which had an 18 hp Kohler)

Anyway...You can put it in there, but you'll have to change the wiring, exhaust, and some other things. There will be some interference problems between the sheetmetal/muffler and the dipstick. If you want to do something really cool, put the manual PTO clutch from the 128 on it, and drive a small hydraulic pump off the basket pulley on the crank, which is unused since you'll be using the starter from the 1650 engine. Then, put the valve and cylinder from the 1650 on the 128 and you'll have a 128 with hydraulic lift.

And reasons NOT to do it:

That K341 mounted solid is going to shake you to pieces. You'll need a stronger clutch spring, or it will slip on hard pulls in 2nd or 3rd gear. Like I said before, you'll have some interface issues with the muffler, shroud, and dipstick, as you can't really use the QL muffler and muffler box.

gary1930 · #3 08-29-2009, 12:55 PM

Thanks, Matt. I'll have to think this over.

Merk · #4 08-29-2009, 04:32 PM

My Son and I put a Quiet Line motor in a 86. The motor was a 14 horse power in stock trim. Key word in last sentence is was...now it's making over 20 horsepower. We used the wire harness from a Quiet Line Cub in the 86. only problem with the change was were the switch goes in the dash. The hole had to be modified. We are using the Quiet Line charging system in the 86.

We have a red spring in the clutch. 86 will still slip the clutch in 3rd gear under a heavy load. The clutch pedal is hard to push in because of the increase spring pressure.

Quote:

by Matt G.
If you want to do something really cool, put the manual PTO clutch from the 128 on it, and drive a small hydraulic pump off the basket pulley on the crank, which is unused since you'll be using the starter from the 1650 engine. Then, put the valve and cylinder from the 1650 on the 128 and you'll have a 128 with hydraulic lift.

We are looking at doing something like that to the 86.

Merk · #5 08-30-2009, 10:43 PM

Motor in 86 was pulled Saturday for some upgrades. The clutch was one of the upgrades. We knew the clutch was slipping. Didn't expect to see this:
Pressure plates for the 70 are on the right side. The pressure plate on the left side are from the 86.

Closer view:

Clutch disk for the 70 are on the right side. The clutch disk on the left side are from the 86.

Closer view:

Part of the clutch disk on the inside of the frame:

Rear pin in the driveshaft:

The pin on the right is new.

jamesm · #6 11-13-2009, 09:17 AM

Another problem is if you use a timing light to time your engine is the site hole on the Q/L engine will be just below the frame enough that you won't be able to see it. I just finished installing a 1450 engine in a 149 frame and had to notch the frame so I could use a timing light. I don't trust setting the points with a feeler gage. I have found the point gap to be anywhere from .016-.022" to get the timing at 20°.

ihnick · #7 11-13-2009, 04:10 PM

I've plowed wth a 1650 that was solid mounted and own a 169 and they don't shake bad at all.

bignastyGS · #8 11-13-2009, 04:39 PM

My 1200 has been converted to a 14 hp Kohler. At idle it shakes a bit more than just a little above idle,but man....the power increase is awesome. My 1200 has wet brakes and a 13 tooth gear and it sounds like a Muncie Rock crusher M22 tranny...Pulls like a beast too.