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#1
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680 hydro trouble
Having a bit of a problem with my 680. While mowing the grass the other night, the tractor just stopped moving. The tractor wouldn't move forward or back at all by moving the lever. Up until that point, the tractor had been working flawlessly. I didn't have much time to fool with it then, so I just went out today to take a look at it.
Today, I ripped the tunnel cover off to see if the driveshaft was spinning. It is, sort of. At low engine speed, it doesn't appear to spin at all. At higher engine speed, it spins pretty slowly, but I've never seen it operating 'normally' without the cover off for comparison. If I had to guess though, I would say this isn't right. Also.. with the tractor shut off, should I be able to spin the driveshaft at all by hand? I'm lead to believe that some sort of spiral pin might be at fault here by reading other threads on other models. Is that the case here? If so, how do I go about replacement? Any help appreciated... |
#2
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Yep, you've likely got a sheared spirol pin. McMaster-Carr is the most economical option if you have multiple tractors, as you can get a package of 25 (1.5" x 0.25" heavy-duty coiled spring pins) for about $12+shipping. Much cheaper than $3-4 each (or more...that was several years ago) through a dealer.
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#3
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Quote:
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#4
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No, you should be able to re-align the coupler and shaft, drive out the remnants of the pin, and install a new one. If you can't get them realigned, you may have to unbolt the engine, slide it forward a bit, and then take the coupler apart so you can remove the pieces separately.
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#5
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On top of what Matt said , be sure to use spirol pin punches . The correct
punch will save you time and trouble ..... |
#6
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I bought the spiral pin punches and they make a world of difference! They don't peen the edge over on the pin.
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#7
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And to add to this even further, I use a brass drift rod to get the pin flush with the outside of the coupler before I use the roll pin punches. This more or less guarantees you won't peen over the end.
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