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  #1  
Old 12-19-2022, 11:50 AM
hamman88 hamman88 is offline
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Join Date: Dec 2022
Location: FL
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Angry Rewiring my Paquette's Cub Cadet

I was lucky enough to buy a beautiful 127 at the Paquette auction 2 months ago. So clean, practically like new.

When I got it it turned over great and had a small hytran leak, but no start. I got the hytran leak fixed and rebuilt the carb, fuel line, etc. That carb was so sticky I couldn't even pull the needle out until I soaked it. Put it back on...nothing. Some of the wires turned had to dust in the process of moving it into my garage.

So, yesterday, I replaced the wiring harness with one from Hamilton Bob's. The diagram included I used was similar to the one here https://www.onlycubcadets.net/forum/showthread.php?t=35 There was no label on the voltage regulator and I didn't want to assume the order was anything more than theoretical so I tested the wires and came back with, from top to bottom, field, bat, gen; as opposed to the diagram which has, from top to bottom, bat, gen, and field.

I was soooo excited to finally get this thing running. I touch the hot wire to the battery, and POP! Clearly a large load or a short, in fact, the engine turned over even though the key was not in.

My first assumption was I wired the voltage regulator wrong. So I changed to to as pictured. No big pop, but charge indicator pulls strongly to the left. Additionally, I can't even turn the key past "on" now.

Sweet baby Jesus. What is going on? Which is the correct voltage regulator wiring order? Did I fry anything? Why the heck can I not turn the key all the way? (note I did have to mess with the ignition a bit as the leads were corroded on)
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  #2  
Old 12-19-2022, 01:18 PM
R Bedell R Bedell is offline
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First, welcome to OCC........

Voltage Regulators have their terminals "Stamped" with letters ie, B, G, F, and chassis Ground. When wiring, attach the correct wire to the correct terminal. Do NOT use an order.

From the sounds of things, there definitely is a mis-wire issue, and you may have fried some components.

Pull the V/R off, and closely examine the V/R, and look for the stamping on each terminal. Wire the tractor as per the Diagram contained in the Tech Library Section.

Go here for V/R wiring.......... V/R

Try to start tractor again. Let us know what you find.
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[B]Roland Bedell[/B]

CC Models: 100, 105, 1450, 782, (2) 784, & 2072

[SIZE="4"][B][COLOR="Red"]Buy:[/COLOR][COLOR="Blue"] Made in the USA[/COLOR][/B] [/SIZE]:American Flag 1:
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  #3  
Old 12-19-2022, 05:02 PM
hamman88 hamman88 is offline
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Well, I feel stupid but not seeing the labels before. Hooked up correctly now, no drama when on battery. Now to figure out why the heck I can't turn the key anymore. Maybe I managed to spot weld it. Hopefully that the extant of the damage.
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  #4  
Old 12-19-2022, 05:55 PM
hamman88 hamman88 is offline
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Got the key freed up with some PB blaster. Unfortunately nothing on ignition. Time to spend some time with the multi meter and see what I broke. Any chance there is a diagnostic flow chart in existence already?

On the BRIGHT side of things, the LIGHTS work. ahahahhahaha
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  #5  
Old 12-19-2022, 06:15 PM
finsruskw finsruskw is offline
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With key in the "on" position you should have power to the coil.
Check that first.
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  #6  
Old 12-20-2022, 08:14 AM
R Bedell R Bedell is offline
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To start the 127, power from the Ignition Switch goes to the Brake Pedal (Neutral Safety Switch), then to the Starter Solenoid.
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[B]Roland Bedell[/B]

CC Models: 100, 105, 1450, 782, (2) 784, & 2072

[SIZE="4"][B][COLOR="Red"]Buy:[/COLOR][COLOR="Blue"] Made in the USA[/COLOR][/B] [/SIZE]:American Flag 1:
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  #7  
Old 12-27-2022, 08:34 AM
hamman88 hamman88 is offline
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Pleased to report nothing fried. Was just a bad contact on the safety switch plug. Started right up and ran great for about 5 minutes. I suspect crud has blocked up the gas tank port or some other fuel supply issue.
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