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#1
04-13-2019, 09:07 AM
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LTX1050 Hydrogear
I bought an LTX1050 at an auction the other day. Looked like I got a good deal till I was making third lap around the yard. Hydrostatic drive started making noises and slowed down till it wouldn't even move. I have done research and checked for possible external problems. Decided to change oil in it. Couldn't believe there is no drain plug. I ended up using a 2 cycle oil syringe to get all that black burned up yuk out of it and replaced it with new (Castrol 20W50). Purged it and checked it out again. No improvement at all.
I am going to try purge again today. Does anyone know if you are supposed to tighten the fill plug before purge cycle or leave it a little loose to let air out? Anyways, I see there are a lot of peeps who have faced this problem. Most posts I've read only talk about the problem and I can't find a lot of follow up as to what resolutions have occurred. Wondering if I would be better off trying to find a suitable replacement. Looks like my LT1024 transmission is basically the same thing with different axle/wheel mounting. But, it works and mows well and I don't want to tear into it just to get my new mower working. I'm experienced and have rebuilt more than just a few water and hydraulic pumps in my day. Hydrostatics are a little different animal, so I'm leery about tearing into it prematurely. What are guys doing about this whole issue? Any insight would be greatly appreciated. Thanks in advance! 
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#2
04-13-2019, 02:33 PM
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I have successfully repaired a couple of these, and though not rocket science, you gotta have some abilities to understand what you are getting into. Not knowing exactly which transmission you have, I can tell you the most common thing that goes bad is this.
Inside, there is a part called the block assembly. It looks like the cartridge holder in a revolver pistol. One side of the block is machined very flat and smooth. Another part is called the center section. It also has a surface that is flat and smooth. Those surfaces mate together and have practically a pressure tight fit even though the block is rotating. When things go south, that mating surface between the block and center has become scored and gouged, thus letting the oil that is passing between the two parts to leak out between their mating surfaces. The hotter the oil becomes, the easier it leaks through and now your pump pressure is lost. You will need to buy those parts, plus filter and seals, which is gonna take you at least into the double Ben Franklin range. Hope that helps you, and here are some links that may help too. https://www.hydro-gear.com/service-and-repair-manuals/ https://www.arkansas-ope.com/HYDRO-G...AIR_PARTS.html https://www.m-and-d.com/Hydro-Gear_parts.html https://www.cubcadet.com/equipment/A...0-ce57bbc6ceb9
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#3
09-08-2019, 10:41 AM
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wow! i was just scrolling along and saw this, thanks for the links, they are all bookmarked mow, I have LT 1018 with a transmission that came out of a 1042 mine stopped, so me being me I wanna see what makes it tick and these links will help GREATLY
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LT1018 18hp Briggs IC.....love the cruise control
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