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  #1  
Old 02-04-2014, 08:06 AM
yeeter yeeter is offline
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Default 1811 switch

I picked up an 1811 yesterday (sorry no pics yet, I go to to work in the dark and come home in the dark so will get pics up in the next few days).

It doesnt want to activate using the key. Simply turning the ignition to on, and jumping the solenoid with a screw driver works. So either a solenoid or a switch I think....

But then a quick test of the PTO and nothing happening there either. Although I havent had a chance to review the wiring diagram in detail (found the 782 wiring diagram in the resources section, but not sure if the 1812 is wired the same) - Im wondering if the PTO could be related to the starter turning over? My gut says any safety switches cut the coil power so if it runs, then the coil is getting power.

Most likely two unrelated things. Next I will check the PTO fuse (a simple place to start), and then maybe make a jumper to see if it will kick in with a direct jumper.

Then will look for loose wires on the back of the switch. And check if its switching at the solenoid (if so then I happen to have an extra so that will be a quick swap).

On the PTO I see a reverse relay so wondering if something there is hanging up. I do notice the brake doesnt return on its own (might just need a spring). Wondering if one of the safety switches on the PTO isnt working. Seat (although that one would also cut out the engine?), Brake? (again that one doesnt allow it to start by cutting the coil?), Reverse?

Come to mention it, I dont know what the reverse relay does - may or may not have anything to do with driving in reverse? (I sometimes get in trouble by assuming too much!)

Any other PTO cutouts to check for?

Im sure there are some other dinky things to do, but thats the basics for now. We have a foot of snow coming tomorrow and this one has a 'super giant monster' snowblower (my kids term), so would be fun to get this operable this eve.....

Pics to come soon I promise, with a list of all the little things needing done. Its a two owner tractor with 900+ hours and runs pretty decent with just a hint of a miss now and then. Im attributing that to sitting most of the time and needing some gas run through it.
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  #2  
Old 02-04-2014, 09:58 AM
R Bedell R Bedell is offline
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The Start Circuit is different and isolated from the PTO Circuit.

Each circuit has their own safety switches.

If you consider the law of averages, the more likely culprit in the Start Issue will be the PTO Switch. They seem to have a greater failure rate than the Ignition Switch.

When you get ready to do some testing, get back with us and we can help you diagnose the problem.
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  #3  
Old 02-04-2014, 10:09 AM
yeeter yeeter is offline
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Thanks Roland, I have found your wiring diagrams particularly helpful!

What is the 'reverse relay'?
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  #4  
Old 02-04-2014, 10:13 AM
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darkminion_17 darkminion_17 is offline
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The switch turns off the engine when the pto is engaged when you put it in reverse.
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  #5  
Old 02-06-2014, 02:00 AM
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1811woody 1811woody is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by darkminion_17 View Post
The switch turns off the engine when the pto is engaged when you put it in reverse.
I'm confused doesn't it just turn off the PTO when you put it into reverse?
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  #6  
Old 02-08-2014, 01:05 PM
yeeter yeeter is offline
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The update:

The reverse switch has been jumped/disabled. PTO switch works fine otherwise (Im going to leave the reverse switched).

So seems that the ignition switch might not be making contact for turning it over (starting). Lights and run positions work fine.

Off looking for a wiring diagram to troubleshoot this switch.

.................................................. .........

Ok wait a minute.

Putting in a known good switch - no go.

The 'switch' lug of the solenoid does not get 12V when the switch is turned.

So suggests something between the switch and the solenoid - an open wire or a grounded wire.... PTO works, but wondering if the PTO switch (or some other safety switch) might 'partially work' - that is the terminals that switch the PTO make contact but some other terminal doesnt.

If grounded it should pull the ammeter down - will check that next.
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  #7  
Old 02-08-2014, 05:54 PM
yeeter yeeter is offline
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Ok, here is what I did:

I pulled the wire off the solenoid terminal (the thinking was this would isolate just the wire to the switch):



Turning the switch I expected to see 12V at this wire - but nothing.

But its not obvious (to me) what wire goes where on the back of the switch. The plug on the back of the switch looks like this:





The blue, and the double whites go to ground when tested with a meter.

The black one shows 12V


Some things I dont know what are:

This fuse hole is completely missing:


I dont know what this is:




It does have this oil idiot light - cant imagine it would affect turning over the starter:



And a pleasant discovery of an external oil filter, do all 1811 series have this?:



Anyone want to suggest whats next? Im thinking of making a jumper from one of the terminals on the switch directly to the solenoid. But would be better to figure out why there is nothing going there from the current harness.... Which one should it be?
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  #8  
Old 02-08-2014, 06:17 PM
yeeter yeeter is offline
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Ummm...... Never mind.

Stared at the wiring diagram some more and finally the lightbulb went off in my head to check the obvious thing first.

Went and looked and yep, the brake safety switch had came out of the holder and didn't engage. My thought was it would cut the coil, but it doesn't, it just prevents from starting.

Clipped it back in and viola!

Starts with the key and all systems go. The PO had been jumping the solenoid for the last year (but in reality I think he used it very little)

Smh.... Sometimes it seems like I make things a lot harder than need be.

But some familiarity with the 1811 now, and everything I have seen so far is encouraging. $500 for the pair and this blower is a monster. Seeming like its going to be my 'go to' for anything over a couple inches (the blade just won't handle the deep stuff)

It's Saturday night, time for a beer

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  #9  
Old 02-08-2014, 06:48 PM
J-Mech J-Mech is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by yeeter View Post
That is where you test yes. Unhooking the wire is unnecessary, and testing there eliminates nothing. Just tells you that it is/is not getting power.


Quote:
Originally Posted by yeeter View Post
With the harness plugged into the back of the switch in the "start" position, the red wire should have 12V on it.

Quote:
Originally Posted by yeeter View Post
That hole isn't supposed to have anything in it.


Quote:
Originally Posted by yeeter View Post
That is the PTO relay.


Quote:
Originally Posted by yeeter View Post
Cool feature of the 1811. No, not relevant to the problem you are having.


Quote:
Originally Posted by yeeter View Post
Yes, all 1811's had a filter.


Quote:
Originally Posted by yeeter View Post
Anyone want to suggest whats next? Im thinking of making a jumper from one of the terminals on the switch directly to the solenoid. But would be better to figure out why there is nothing going there from the current harness.... Which one should it be?
You need to start at the key switch and trace the wires through clear to the solenoid. It runs through a couple things along the way. Neutral safety, and PTO. That is it. No others. Doesn't sound to me like you have eliminated the PTO switch. Go to the tech section and download the chassis service manual for the 1811. It has wiring diagrams in it.
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  #10  
Old 02-08-2014, 06:54 PM
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Sam Mac Sam Mac is offline
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Glad you found your problem, it seems like it's always the simple little things we over look, BTDT.
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